Tuesday, January 31, 2012

Wind and Snow,

I was jarred awake last night by the wind punching at my windows. I had left one open in the laundry room and the map i had in there was thwaking and things were clanging. In general a cacophony of rhythmic thwomps and rattles. I secured all the hatches and went back to bed, and woke up to only somewhat less stormy weather. And yesterday was so resplendent. I have no rhythms for the weather here so everyday i'm a little wait? whats today?Also when something goes wrong or becomes hard to do, like resetting my internet connection or dealing with the stupid sensitivity of my mousepad is enough to get me muttering about why everything has to be so hard. Even now I can sense the daunting task of trying to come up with food everyday, particularly lunch and dinner- and that alluring ramen i can't have which means i have to search down the ricenoodle version. wahhhh.  Makes me wonder what on earth i was eating before. And there's no quinoa within miles. Anyway.

So having said, aw, hi korea.  And ooof! my 150lbs of luggage is killing me as i just walked a 100yds found storage lockers and wouldnt have ever considered it before- I stuffed my blue bag into one of the lockers and went to find the #4 train, as a man reeking of liqour was asking me for change. I had while there the question of why I bothered with Seoul in the first place. I was looking for something I think. Some sign of my right decision or Seoul being closed to me. I think it had a lot to do with the too easy access to coffee shops and american eateries too. But anyway I came off the train pretty easily and was immediately left with the Where the #(*$%#! AM I! The map to the hostel made no sense, because as we'll discover I came out at the wrong exit or possibly even the wrong station. After walking around the corner, then down the block, probably in hindsight getting closer but still not on target to my destination, and the wind stinging my cheeks- theres only so much hunching over to tuck your face into your coat and scarves, while wheeling 90lbs of luggage + a heavy backpack you can do. I should've ditched the other bag too. Alas. So TAXI!

I was staring right at him, with my one bag tipping over into the street, and causing a general scene that begrudgingly the older dude pulled over and helped me with my things, muttering. I know the feeling sir. I handed him the hostel directions, and 3600 won later, and a confirmation that i wouldve not wanted to walk that long he dropped me off saying we were at the university. At least I'm pretty sure that's what he said. Of course that left me near the hostel but not AT the hostel. But by then I had spotted the NewYork Hotdog Place and the Dunkin Donuts which lead me to the Family Mart, and finally to the Windroad Hostel. (that is how most of the directions are. it is never go down 1st, .25 and then turn left on 3rd.) So then,

The place behind the creaking metal door looked like a complete hole! Oh hostels. Anyway get your shite together and make this place presentable at any season! As the courtyard was tiny and encased in metal and concrete-grey---- some faded flags, empty pots and desolate seating made the place seem completely abandoned. As it was I had to take my shoes off and trundle through the flimsy slidding door, for the woman to say to me that nothing was open because it was NewYears- i thought, ah, the first prophetic sign. As it turns out old korea was open to me but the new korea wasn't. Or rather the balance of my 2 days was something like starbucks and palaces? tea houses and traditional musicals...

So I left for the nearest palace which she was convinced was closed. Nope. Open and Free! On new years. So there I was wandering around Changgeonggang Palace and getting excited to go back to the hostel to watch my korean drama 'Tree with Deep Roots' because it totally takes place in palaces like the ones i saw from the Joseon period... Ok, first excersion check. Now the thing about food... nothing in fact was open except for a couple places, but i am terminally wary of trying new things. Ironic i know. But i lapped the block twice near my hostel to make very sure i wanted to even try this one place- dokgalbi- and then to fret over if they took CC's or not. It was delicious. Phew. Grilled chicken marinated, with cabbage and such. And then back home discovering all of my US shows were barred to me by the usual methods if you know what i mean. But i ask you why dramafever which hosts entirely korean dramas is unwatchable in korea!? HURUMPH.

Nevermind. I passed out by 6. I had totally failed the 2nd day challenge of acclimation. My little shoebox of a room was too cozy, (albiet thin walled, hearing someone snarf and hack in the shower- uck). The next day i was up early waiting for the dawn to come sluggishly in to my tiny window, and I was off to Seoul Tower to get a vista of the city from the Northern slope of Namsam Hill. Of course there was the inevitable, which way do i go! Walk this way? No maybe this way? (turns out both wouldve been right)... and not a breakfast place but the ubiquitous 'paris baguette' open. Can i eat anything there? no.

The ride up the cable car was the most cool. I faired pretty well and spotted a couple of foreigners. We aren't hard to miss really. Anyway, I love the mountain peaks surrounding Seoul. The place is really massive and spreads all around Namsam. Once up there, there were more steps, which obviously i complained about- and what i encountered at the palaces too- why are all the steps so tall!? My bathroom step is the same way. They're short people. Why on earth are they building steps that are at least a foot or more in height? I don't get it. So up i went, and once there decided i really didn't need to go to the top of Seoul tower, and so gazed at some locks- lots of locks actually, that lovers have begun leaving for a long time now, to symbolize their unity etc... etc... etc...

So this is where it gets boring, if you're still with me- i'll encapsulate-
Walk to Starbucks, Find Tourist Center!, Figure out a Musical to watch, Stupidly think killing 6 hours won't be a problem, go to Seoul Art Museum, go to Deksugsung Palace, encounter first squat toilet, have a man offer to take a picture of me for me, and then i tried to take a pic of him with his ipadd- tricky... bravely try downstairs eatery- i hate going up dark stairs or down them to anyplace where i'm getting food. It all seems a bit ominous or shady to me? I don't know why. But there i was. Eating a very savory broth with beef and vege and rice- bulgogi. Then off to yes, another tea house- ridiculously expensive 6,000 won where as my lattes at SB were maybe 4600. This is where time gets out of hand. I walk around a bit but its getting colder and windy-er, i cave and eat at mcdonalds to kill more time, i go to another tea house on the same street, much more reasonable, where the apples in the display are only for display? Bah. To then seeing Miso, The Musical. It had some singing and some acrobatics and general shenanigans and a love story of course. I sat next to a lovely girl with long hair lightly curled, thin, with a light smile, more robust then someone who you love that's dying of consumption but that's the effect she had. You just wanted to squeeze her, she oozed heart, and she who had met a french boy who was trying to learn korean for her no doubt- so i'd hear them talking in french and then halting english together, and she hoped that i would have a memorable time at the show. She really was endearing.

And the musical made me laugh and kept me up late and got me ready for the next day, so off i went to the #2 train to transfer to #4 and find myway back... but i'll stop now and save some for next time... as it is i have that nagging anxiety about lesson planning for my first class. Though these sorts of classes I feel are more improv and less plan- which would require I have tricks up my sleeve and i don't... So we'll see.









2 comments:

almost anonymous said...

It seems so much more real with photos of you in a foreign country.

pen said...

Yes it's karen! And she's in Korea! The reality is hitting home.