karen in korea

location, location, location

2011-12-01T18:33:00.000-08:00

As the other blog might have said i'm a bit conflicted over where to focus the job search. And how even korean soap operas are infiltrating my dilemma by the constant, and literal back and forth of their characters to and from. . . So to add to the consult, i was mentioning my possible departure to Korea, which by the way means "Chosen", to my friend Jessica and she works for a Korean company (so happens), and asked them if they had any opinions about where to go based on a few regions i gave her:

[ok, so I spoke to my girls at work. here are there random responses to each town... haha]

Jeju Island:

-my mom love jeju island and me too

-good food, seafood

-nice weather, always shiny and bright, like california (sometimes a little humid)

-people are nice, island people

-only 30 minutes to Busan

-beautiful but small, might be hard to find a job

Guang ju province:

-i don't know about guang ju... I visit a few times

-i heard that people are inside soft, but outside speak strong (loud speaking- sounds like yelling)

Busan

-good food, but a little too salty

-they have strong accent too... speaking strongly (yelling like chinese)

-if you learn korean over there, you're gonna be learning to speak loudly

-busan is big city with a lot of demand, second active city in korea

-probably much easier to find job here and you can easily visit Jeju

Oh the Hoops,

2011-11-15T22:55:00.000-08:00

COST: so far: $290

FBI CBC (aka pain in my ass)
Criminal Background Check

Fingerprints: $20
Mail it: $10 (w.sase)
Processing Fee: $18
Total Time: 9 weeks!
* only for them to do it WRONG. they didn't include the seal or signature as requested.

Passport: $110 (Renewel)

Mail it: $5 priority
Print photos: $1
Taking them myself: $0
Total Time: 2wks! (shocking govt. shocking)

BA Transcripts/Diploma

2 transcripts: $6 (bonus two spare ones mailed to me accidentally. score!)
1 copy of diploma: $8
Mobile Notary: $35
County Clerk Sig: $9 AND 1 1/2 later (also they don't take visa. pain in myass.)
CC Fee: $1.75
State Dept Apostille: $26
Done over 1 day. (after the t/d came)
CA SUCKS.

MFA Transcripts/Diploma

2 Transcripts: $10
1 Diploma: FREE
1 Notary: FREE

it went missing and they sent it to me again! express! FREE!

3 Apostilles: $6 !!!! (just because i could)
Mail it: $10 and change
Total Time: 2 wks for apostille.
ILLINOIS WINS.

RESUME

Yah, hmm. Something, something, need coverletter...

THE GAMBLE*

Have the state Notary sign the federal FBI CBC: $10

aka the "technical loophole"

Have the countyclerk authenticate the signature: $9
Have the CA SD authenticate the county clerk signature: $20

if the Gamble pays off: I'M DONE.
if the Gamble doesn't pay off:

$10 in mailing fees to wait another 2 wks if they agree to take it back even though the state notary stamped it. Back to the beginning? Imminent disaster?
$70+ to expedite it once it comes back. Not sure how long it would take after that.

.....
not included: $45 F2 Visa Fee
needed: 2 diplomas apostilled, 2 sealed transcripts from BA, 2 bonus apostilled MFA transcripts, copy of passport photo page, passport, 4 passport photos, resume, [contract, health statement, school info, references from school]

Progress,

2011-11-01T22:05:00.000-07:00

guess what i got when i got home from camping. 2 wks!? what the what government!

But where!?

2011-10-19T18:11:00.000-07:00

The thing of it is, I've met someone else.

Oh, Kang. It's not that I don't love you- it's just that you want me to go to Seoul. I'm avoiding Seoul like I'm allergic to NewYork. I know you have to give everyplace a 3rd time but I'll probably be in Korea before I get the chance to be absolutely certain that it's emotionally toxic to me. I mean part of me thinks yes, let's go extreme and crushing and vast and concrete because it's different. But if it's got all the western amenities I could want and more, (besides shoes and plussizes) is it really? I found that in every European country i went to- same/same. Comme ci comme ca. Familiar, getting aroundness. So then I thought, ok, let's go to the Korean LA/SF. But if it's SF it's not my bag as i'm patently not a baysider. And if it's LAish then well, I'm here and i've been there done that. And any city is really a city. And what about the fact that I'm suppose to be fasting from all that BUY ME and GO HERE and DO THAT, So then I started thinking countryside? Or better yet what about an island?

Enter Mr. Jeju.
He caught my eye with this headline:

Island Life Anyone? Several Public and Private School positions all year round on the "Korean Hawaii" Amazing Jeju Island!!
Jeju ESL Consulting -- Friday, 14 October 2011, at 6:20 p.m.

Why Choose Jeju Island?
With its subtropical climate, picturesque beaches and mountainous terrain, Jeju provides a healthy alternative to the pollution of Korea's congested mainland cities. For those wanting a more active lifestyle, Jeju offers golf, tennis, scuba diving, windsurfing, biking, beach volleyball, ultimate Frisbee, surfing, rock climbing, or hiking up Halla San, Korea's highest mountain. New arrivals are always welcomed warmly by Jeju's friendly locals and close-knit foreigner community which ranges from 400-500 ESL teachers alone. If you are seeking a balanced adventure teaching English in Korea and love the outdoors, Jeju is the place for you.
And though Starbucks has yet to make it over there even though they've been in korea since 1999- well, maybe that's a good thing? (I don't know, i'm not ready to talk about it!!) So, Mr. Jeju emailed me back and then I emailed him back and now we've talked on the phone. He tells me everything i need to hear like, forget about korea until you have your fbi background check in aka relax! and you've got a 50/50 chance of getting a job here, but perhaps we can place you elsewhere too. Jeju, he's so pop-ulaaar. I might miss Kang and his friendconnection in the midst of this everyone wants me, but then... if i can't stumble upon a primo university position then maybe mr.islandman might be the 2nd best. Either way it's looking like January. Which come to think of it is right in between Dec and Feb. And Jeju is the outofleftfield from Seoul or Busan-- here's to keeping my options open- but not too open. I hate playing the field. And hopefully landing in the best place right when i need to.

oh and SHOUT OUT.

2011-10-10T13:54:00.000-07:00

this beautiful woman mid-conversation about renewing passports and paperwork wrote me a check to cover 70% of my passport fee. WhAT!?

After the Interview,

2011-10-10T13:50:00.000-07:00

Finally, talked with Kang. Who is a nice might aswell be the korean version of my Fb friend damon. Which lead to my first and hopefully not last interview. Who said i should smile more and not talk so fast.

It went well. I think? I spoke slowly. Clearly. Why Korea? Why teach kids? Strengths/Weaknesses? Homesickness? Boyfriend/Man go with you? Have you ever left the country? Where? For what purpose? Totally forgot until the end of the interview that i'd been to central america... but nevermind. I'll blog more about the 2nd interview later... bcs you care?

let's touch base with kang: [ please read on as your attention span allows]

schu: ooh!
schu:: yes hello
kang: hi!!!
schu: hello!
schu: good morning to you
kang: hi!
schu: are things well over there?
kang: Yes...Perfectly fine.

kang: She likes you.
kang: I will ask her to interview you through skype.. one more time.
kang: My concern is your documentation....
schu: Ok. My one hesitation is that I'd be the only foreign teacher there though.
schu: Yes.
schu: I hope it will be here by November
kang: Here in Korea most of the schools have only one foreign teacher.
kang: 90% of the schools..
schu: Oh it was my understanding that was more the case for public schools?
schu: Ah.
schu: Ok.
kang: Public schools can have 2-3 teachers.
schu: I see.
kang: a few school may have more than 5 teachers.
schu: Damon wanted me to ask how long they have been in business?
schu: Is this something you would know?
kang: Otherwise, one foreign teacher is pretty common.
kang: I will ask her.
kang: I have known for 2 years.
kang: It seems the school is pretty stable.
kang: She has around 3 Korean teachers.
schu: So it is a small school?
schu: That's good to know. I like thatyou know her and have worked with her before.

schu: Are you concerned my documentation will not be ready intime?
kang: the school owner is concerned about it.
kang: She may think you may not make it on time when she needs you.
schu: Ah yes. Was it end of december yes?
kang: Yes...End of December.
[i go on and on about what i've done so far]
schu: I understand though about timing though. It may be better to hire a teacher who will be ready sooner.
schu: We hope for no delays.

kang: I will ask her about your concerns/anything you want to know.
kang: - How long the business, anyother ?
schu: I should like to talk to the teacher that is leaving as well :)
kang: I will arrange it for your conversation with the teacher who is leaving soon.
schu: Thank you very much.

kang: Schu....Don't worry. I will not put you in a bad school.
kang: I promise.
schu: : D
kang: Damon is monitoring me.
schu: Hahaha
kang: It is my responsibilty to take care of it.
schu: You speak to my fears. Thank you.
schu: I say, I will have what God has for me. It is hard though. I want to step wisely.

kang: I just can't do a certain things which you may ask me to do.
kang: Because they are school owners and also my clients.
schu: Let me know when that is the case. I want to respect your boundaries.
kang: I will be very neutral and do my best to make you feel secured.
schu: I am not sure when i ask too much.
kang: I will let you know.
schu:: thank you.
kang: When I approach to her asking your conversation with the leaving teacher.
kang: I should speak very nicely and technically about it not to offend her.
kang: And making her to allow what we want to do .
schu: Yes, i understand. For me i wish to know nuances of her experience.
schu: And not to judge the school good/bad.
schu:: But i understand, delicate.

kang: OK...I am happy to work with you.
kang: I would like to see you soon in Koera.
schu: yes, i am getting more excited to come everyday.
kang: Are you a Christian ?
schu: Yes.
kang: I am a Christian. Damon also too.
[chatter]
kang: I would like you to see this then.
kang: Give me a second...I will give you the link to our English Worship Service..
kang: I hope you like it.

[church website chatter]

schu: thank you for sharing this.
kang: I got to go now. Saturday here with my family members...hehe..You have a good weekend too!!
schu: Thank you!
schu: Yes. Have a good day.
kang: AnyQuestions about anything ..just feel free to send an email. or skype...
schu: Yes. I'll try to think of some
kang: talk to you soon.
schu: and i'll let you know.
schu: yes!
schu: thank you!
kang: bye...

Well, and Then

2011-10-01T14:42:00.000-07:00

kang: Hey... Schu...Terribly sorry..I had an unexpteced issue coming up.
kang: I missed the time.
kang: I am available..You are in LA...I am in Seoul.

Keeping Minutes,

2011-09-29T20:27:00.000-07:00

I'm waiting for mr.kang to come on line. He is now officially 3minutes past due. I was of course ready 1/2 hour before just in case he came on early. He didn't. My mom wants to know why her hptouch is in my room, and really intently listening to someone speak in english as a 2nd language over mom dad and tv and humming fridge and buzzing lights just seemed too much, so that's why. Of course now i can hear the traffic clearly on the street and the various noises of my machine. Also my face is oddly red. I think there was wheat in my mashed potatos. I totally regret eating them. Must take benedryl after or IF i talk to mr, kang who is now 5minutes overdue. I even lamely typed hello, hello... on the off chance he was there but not there. He didn't respond. Meanwhile the two burning questions seem to be busan or seoul and december or february. I honestly can't see lasting 5 months, let alone 3... and then interviews and contract negotiations? dare i? dare i?

It's difficult with mrkang. He is damon's friend. So i don't know what the protocal is in terms of him being the only one to help me or trying to find stuff online. I know some sites recommended I submit my resume to places myself and consider engaging 1 or 2 recruiters but i've never been one to hedge my bets. Is that the term? Really it's alot to be skyping with a complete stranger and trying to be available at a specific time because of the 16 hour difference. Honestly 4 hours ago would've been better. I would be less impatient and foot tapping. I've got all my online time out of my system and this frankly seems to be torture. Tick.tock. But then the abyss of recruiting agencies, hagwan companies and korean characters i can't download bcs of my language pack seems like a lot too. It's like you might as well be throwing bottles into the sea or well into a vacuum tube which seems like it could land anywhere.

So i'll copy and paste my chat with him from yesterday. Which is amusing because i start being hyper aware of either typing in broken english, or being ridiculously formal. And then you know, mr,kang finally getting my busan hints with a... oh you prefer? ah, i see... what does that mean!? I have previously mentioned it like 5x. So much that i began to doubt whether or not busan was good or not because he kept suggesting jobs in seoul. Nevertheless. Anyway meanwhile my transcripts are in and now i'm waiting for my diploma... ticktock.

kang: Schu..I would like to talk to you asap.
kang: Schu...I am available anytime...
kang: Plz let me know.

schu: Hi! Yes. I am sorry I missed you. When is best with the time difference? I am most available in the morning 8am my time? but could also do 3pm? 4pm? Is that too early for you?

kang: are you there ? [oh crap he's there! i can't blow him off!? i should talk to him]
schu: hello
schu: i can't skype right now. but i can chat [parents are home. i am now self-conscious about my hair. for-getIT]
kang: OK...
schu: Later tonight i can though
kang: Job # SangDo : Female Only
#Qualification: Bachelor’s degree in any major
-Location: SangDo(상도: 739) Subway Line 7
-Starting date: End of December, 2011
-Teaching days: Monday~Friday (No Saturday)
-Working Hours: 1:00PM~9:00PM
-Student Type: Elementary + Middle
**benefit;
-Pay: 2.2 mil won/month
-Air ticket: Round-trip air ticket
-Medical Insurance: 50%
-Accommodation: Single furnished accommodation
-Paid vacation: 10 days/year
-Severance pay: one month Salary after the completion of the contract

kang: Can you consider it ?
schu: Yes. It was just that I had wanted Busan first as an option.
kang: Ah you prefer Busan Job?
schu: Yes, i had heard it was less crowded and more like Los Angeles.
schu: I am from Los Angeles and so thought a more laid back relaxed life style.
kang: I see...
kang: When can we talk again ?
schu: Are jobs better in Seoul?
schu: We can talk in 2 1/2 hours or i can talk tomorrow morning my time?
kang: Tomorrow is better.
schu: That's good for me. It's good to chat you finally!
kang: Me..too...
kang: I would like to talk to you soon again.
schu: Tomorrow is good. Or the next day. Whichever.
schu: I am up around 8am my time. I can talk in the late evenings also--
kang: Can we talk 4 hours later ?
kang: I am not sure it is good for you?
schu: from now?
kang: yes..
schu: maybe too late. I am usually up till 1130 my time though.
kang: ok...then....
kang: your time 8 am means... my time is late night 12:00am ...hehe...
schu: oh yes...
kang: what shoudl we do ...
schu: ah!
kang: how about this ...
kang: the same time tomorrow...
kang: 12pm here..your time 8pm there.
kang: OK ?
schu: that sounds good.
schu: i will write it down.
kang: OK....then exactly 24 hours later...
kang: 12pm/8pm...
kang: nice talking with you.
kang: bye now.
schu: yes, sorry i can't now. but tomorrow is good.
schu: see you then.
kang: good night~~

[He is now 27minutes past due.]

Korea, right? Maybe?

2011-09-20T20:54:00.000-07:00

I've already set myself to: Let's go. Am totally going to be bummed if that teacher recruiter doesn't call me or if he's like sorry, all the contracts i have for you sort of suck, so. Or what if they're all no, we don't want someone who's 35 with a masters degree, and we're not going to let you adventure in our country and pay off your debts and work in our country and warp young minds who desire a conversational ability in speaking english.

I'm already looking forward to someone asking me my blood type (B+), going to an abandoned amusement park on a small island, touring southeast asia, paying most of my CC bills off, and part of my car, and taking a trip into Japan, and eating lots of korean bbq and finding the sbux in busan and the gf pizza options i've heard about, and standing like a slightly larger pocahontas against the backdrop of the mighty, ...uh sea of japan?~~ocean~~ crashing against the jagged rocks of the shore of my destiny.

Oddly most of my obstacles are money related. Go figure. And my finger prints don't come back until end of october... i hope sooner? But more on that when i feel like meticulously laying out my beurocratic journey in detail for you, because you care. I know you do.

Down Mexico Way

2009-03-03T16:18:00.003-08:00

I spent a day in Baja. I got some small plates and a statue of St. Francis. I did not drink the water. And I walked along the beach. The ocean seems particularly consuming.

The House of Lo

2009-02-13T07:18:00.003-08:00

Hello Good People,
I've been laid lo by a cold of some sorts. I blame not doing yoga for 2 months. . . allowing some sort of sinus thing to set up shop in my system. But I shall trace myself back to the night before I left- when I suddenly felt dizzy. Wait, that's boring... there was this part where I was sneaking a wooden duck on a plane. And I felt victorious for not having to spend $15 to check anything. Historic! Totally got away with it.

But onward, into the dark night to finally see my friend Penelope. There was much rejoicing. And a bowl of chili and Kaleigh yelling out in a happy voice, It's Keirran! That was pretty cute. She won me over quickly which allowed me to forgive her for waking me up with shrill cries around 7am in the morning. Something about wanting something... which is as much a familiar refrain for her as for me. So I could identify. I was still on LA time and didn't really get to bed until 2am. I persevered in my sleeping for a little bit longer... but shuffled my self out to the mayhem, which in fact contains some charm in the form of 2kids and a somewhat exasperated Penelope, equally charming and way more verbal.

We were going to visit a beef farm but alas it was closed... and so wandered around the small town of Hillsbourough which has historical signs and an organic grocer. Though we did note the delicious sandwich we were sharing contained corn syrup in the mayo. We are not sure why but we are supsicious.

Sometime after we headed to Chez Lo, where the true analysis of all things Penelope began. Should I regain my strength I will do my best to report my findings.

Food Stuff

2009-02-12T13:19:00.000-08:00

Schu Goes East

2009-02-06T01:08:00.004-08:00

Look at me go!

joblessness won't stop me. There was a glut recently in parking tickets and traffic infractions that might slow me down but only for a little bit. It's just a reminder that life can get fucked up fairly fast. By carelessness or a series of small missteps, and suddenly you're broke, or in jail, or homeless, or you lose your license, and it's a fucked up but short trip sometimes to the bottom. I think that's what all these traffic tickets remind me. And also the importance of grace for people, not just for myself. Preferably in a position to give it and be on the receiving end of it. Because in the face of things like rule violations that are so pointless but necessary sometimes you just wonder.

But I digress- i'm heading to North Carolina for a week. To see my long lost friend Penelope. So I'll be back on the blog in all its glory... and seeing what it's like even after all my travels. And so far the shaking of the memory seive is going well... the volcano climbing seems to be the most significant. We'll see what else comes through... along with upcoming ghost tours and time with toddlers... i'm sure there will be plenty of fodder here for my memories files also.

Things I got mYself

2009-01-23T16:45:00.007-08:00

Hello, Self:
Here's what you got yourself. You went a little crazy but that's not so bad. On the way back from the mountain, as suggested by another, more foreward thinking person, you picked up a tiny chunk of volcanic rock. Years from now you will not remember much about this rock or why it's gathering dust on your shelf, or resting in the attic in a bowl of such rocks, but for now, along with a small vial of volcanic sand, it's a pretty fantastic reminder. Just in case you forget, though at the time you could barely marvel at it, you were pretty fricking close to lava! I got the seed beads in Nicaragua and I like them for just being basic and awesome. The multi-colored wood/bead combo I got for probably the outrageous but cheap sum of $8 cash. It was the most unique wood beading necklace I saw through all of my travels. And its purchase was unforeseen as I made my way back to my hotel one night in La Fortuna, and wandered into a wood sculpture studio. If I had had more cash I would've bought more. I actually had to tell myself no.

This I got from Nicaragua though there were others like it in Guatemala. It was a great last minute but perfect purchase! Though I was initially hesistant to the textiles of Central America, they came to win me over.

I was suspect about the ravings of Flor de Cana Rum but I got this bottle for $4 and it's a very smoothe rich tasting Rum- and I had the best Mojito I've ever had in Roatan, and I can only hope it was made with this stuff.

Hi butterfly. I got you for $10. Though I could've easily picked a more ubiquitous butterfly, a flashy blue one for instance I was drawn in by your subtle charm. Though cathy insists its like having a mounted head on the wall, all I can do is marvel at your natural beauty... and mostly hope you died of natural causes. I got you in Costa Rica.

Hello Conch shell earrings. I got these beauties in Granada, Nicaragua. They're shiny and I like them.
The hammock... not pictured.

One day hammock. I'll get you strung and you're going to be glorious. Don't doubt it.
And you my fair beauty I also got in Nica. Though I regret not getting more in Guatemala, I knew by the time I hit Granada what I liked and didn't, what was common and what was a find... I think this is a pretty good summation of my trip in all its tiny parts- the beauty of nature in all its forms: cotton, wood, rock, butterfly, volcanic, shell and sugarcane... who knew! I see a theme!!! Awesome.

Sweet Things

2009-01-22T17:21:00.002-08:00

And this is why it's good to come home sometimes...

What I got my Mom

2009-01-21T17:26:00.003-08:00

The Red and Blue/Purple runner, shawl type thing I found in a shop in Antigua Guatemala. And it is the most spectacular color and the blue pattern is all threading. And it is the only thing like it I saw. I am very proud to have rescued it from a shop where it was rumpled on a bottom shelf. I hope it's of good quality and can only wonder why no one else had bought it. It comes from the Nahuala region of Guatemala. And the other is from some of the local indians, in Antigua proper, and is more traditional of what I saw. Theresa, the woman who sold it to me said it took her mother 3wks to make. Regardless... i was like ok, I'll take it and only later became captivated by its pretty awesomeness. You'll be happy to know mom also got coffee and some extremely tasty sugarcane.

Here's some facts for you know, informationals sake:

The name Nahualá / Nahuala / Nawala' / Niwala'
Local residents translate the name Nahualá roughly as “enchanted waters,” “water of the spirits,” and “water of the shamans,” and they often object to the common Spanish translation of the name as “agua de los brujos” (or “water of the witches”). Scholars have typically argued that the name Nahualá derives from a compound of the Nahuatl term nagual or nahual (pronounced NA-wal), meaning “magician” (and related to terms for clear or powerful speech) and the K’ichee’ root ja’, meaning “water.” However, the loanword nawal, which entered the Mayan languages about a thousand years ago, came to denote “spirit[s]” or “divine co-essence[s],” as well as “shaman[s]” in K'ichee'. Some Maya linguists have argued apocryphally that the “true” name should be Nawalja’ or Nawal-ja’, disregarding that the word ja’ is regularly apocopated at the ends of words --especially toponyms-- not only in K’ichee’, but related Mayan languages. Those who promote the neologisms Nawalja’ and Nawal-ja’ also ignore that the pronunciation of the neologisms is inconsistent with the pronunciation in sixteenth-century K’ichee’- and Kaqchikel-Mayan recorded in several early colonial manuscripts written in Latin orthography by members of the native nobility.

For example, the sixteenth-century Título de Totonicapán mentions a Late Post-classic Period site called “navala,” (not “navalha”). Although scholars have argued that the site of the título corresponds to the modern community of Nahualá, it may actually correspond to a pre-colonial Nahua-, K’ichee’- and Tz’utujiil-speaking community located some 20 kilometers to the south: San Juan Nahualá or San Juan Nagualapan (later annexed as a ward of the departmental capital of San Antonio Suchitepéquez). The earliest mention of Nahualá occurs in one of the sixteenth-century Kaqchikel-language Xpantzay Títulos, which mentions a site called, “chohohche niguala” which almost certainly corresponds to a modern canton of the cabecera of Nahualá, Chojojche’ (Cho Joj Chee' = "Before [the] Crow Tree"). Several other sixteenth or early seventeenth-century titles in Spanish and K’ichee’ mention Nahualá either directly (as “Navala”) or obliquely, in terms of the landmarks of the community, including Siija (a Late Post-Classic fortress settlement located atop a hill of the same name, 12 kilometers west of Nahualá), Pa Raxk'im ("in the green bunchgrass/thatch," the name of the mountain chain that envelops most of the township's highland territory, as well as a Nahualeño village of the same name), Chi Q'al[i]b'al ("at the throne" a site located near Siija, mentioned in the Xajil chronicle popularly known as the Anales de los Cakchiqueles), Chwi' Raxon or Pa Raxon ("above the cotinga/verdure/green feathers/wealth," the mountain in the center of the township's head town), Poop Ab'aj ("Petate-Stone," a site located northeast of the town, along the precolonial road that became part of El Camino Real during the Spanish period), Xajil Juyub', Pa Tz'itee', Chwi' Patan, and others).

[edit] History
Despite early references to the community, foreign scholars and many Mayas themselves have ironically tended to claim that the community was only founded in the second half of the nineteenth century, promoting particularly apocryphal interpretations of local legends.

Nahualá was settled at least as early as the Pre-Classic Period. Archaeologist John Fox, who conducted archaeological surveys in the area during the 1970s, identified structures from the Pre-Classic, Classic, and Post-Classic Periods. Grinding stones dated to as early as 500 BCE found in archaeological sites around Quetzaltenango were likely manufactured near the cabecera of Nahualá, where residents still mine volcanic basalt and carve grinding stones that are sold throughout Guatemala’s western highlands.

[edit] Population
Nearly the entire population of the municipality is made up of K’ichee’-Mayas who speak the K'iche' language. The population of the township is estimated to be between 50,000-85,000 individuals, about 10% of whom live in the township’s head-town or cabecera. Statistics vary widely because much of the township’s territory and several large villages are also claimed by Nahualá’ sister township, Santa Catarina Ixtahuacán.

Schu Came Through!

2009-01-16T15:54:00.002-08:00

So my postcard from Costa Rica finally came! It was postmarked on the 3rd of January and arrived on the 12th. Not to shabby, I guess. : ) And Schu also delighted and surprised me with a lovely necklace from Guatemala and a vial of volcanic ash. I am a happy camper. Thanks Schu!!!

CHECKLIST revisited For Danica, by SCHU

2009-01-13T17:02:00.004-08:00

Haven been given a charge and challenge to the 32lbs my pack constituted I thought of it like a harassing gnat through my entire travels... and it did not go unnoticed that I lost 5lbs but my pack gained 14... having at check out weighed in at 46lbs. Purely for the exercise and its true, future backpacktrekking travels I will just for the fanatical list makers among us, indicate what was useful and what I neglected to bring... etc.etc.

PACKED:

Memory cards: 3 4g, 2 2g: Used 4/5 cards. Shot: Raw. Felt extravegent. Need: Vital.
Vaccination Cert: Completely unnecessary (this time)
Itinerary: good to have.
$300 LP & Money: Brought $250 additional. Should have packed more?
ID,STNT ID, AAA: good to have, USED.
MP3 Player: Lost, completely bummed. Thorn in side.
Journal: Gasp. Not necessary. Used RARELY. Sadness.
CAMERA: Should have had a small case for it. Really.!
Charger: Used 3x.
Water: felt bad for using so many plastic bottles after a while. Was torn. Somehow treating the water and not buying plastic would ultimately have been more sustainable tourism.
Alarm Clock: VITAL
Sunglasses: Used Occasionally
Tweezers/Mirror: Used when bored but I liked to have.
Eucerin: glad I had it. Didn't use it much. Used deodarant on my thighs which cut down chaffing and other unpleasantness!
Amphibian Walk/Water: great comfortable shoes. Though were not good for silty, sandy, or volcanic surfaces.
Flipflops: Yup, good arch support, could have fitted better, and well the tan line... sigh.
Day Pack: Vital
Pancho: Used once in downpour in LaFortuna. Glad I had it. Was fun. But I suppose unnecessary, still would not, not pack it.
Small Towel/Microfiber: I used it but it developed a smell...hmm. Had towels throughout from the hotels...
Jacket (fleece/wind): Used a couple of times. Glad I had it.
Sunflower Seeds: should have brought 1 more pack.
Jerky: absolutely glad I brought it.
Gum: a pack or 2 short but I could've bought in CenAm, favs: orange, mint.
Cliff Bars: lifesaving. Brought 12. Used 10. Gave 1 away.
Apple slices dried: such a nice variety to have when I couldn't get fruit. Loved it!
7 Microfiber Underwear: happy with the # and loved the type. Cleaned/dried super easily,
3 Undersocks: used once, wore flipflops or got wet more often then not but 1-2 is ok
6 Socks: I hate washing socks. Mental note this. They get really dirty and its hard.
Mysterious feminine products: took too many pads but then is that bad...?
White Skirt: Loved it! So so glad I brought it. Slept in it, went dancing in it, good for the beach... though it did show some wear at the end there.
Red/Red Skirt: uh, not dye fast. Yikes. Turned my nice new pair of white pants totally pink! But a good last resort skirt, and beach blanket, but was afraid I'd turn red if I laid on it while wet... must rethink.
Swimsuit: oddly too heavy duty and functional. Needed more just 2 pieces, quick drying and thinner-- less sinching fabric...
4 Bras: still could've had lighter thinner bras but what to do?
6 Tops(teal:a little semi-casz/blu(basic but with details)/gren(fun, but scratchy elements! horror!)/blck: button up, excellent/yllw: trashycomfy/light green:long and loose): good mix of fabrics, color, type. Was pretty happy with my selection. Could've splurged with one more like a tank top. Should have brought.
1 LS-T Shirt OldNavy (light/cotton): good for warmth and when it was really humid. Found it cooling. Excellent.
Northface LS-T: Really good for airplane, volcano climbing, cooler nights.
Sleep Shorts: Good for sleep and beach.
Water Shorts: Used a couple times, could have used more but didn't.
1 Stretch Pants: awesome for the plane and volcano climbing.
2 Cargo Pants: were too loose but quick drying and pretty comfortable. Was unsure if I really needed both but...
Stretch Capri: excellent for the more active things we did.
Cards: didn't offer up for drinking games but used when stuck on an island whose beach was under water. Don't regret it.
Insect Repellent: Glad to have both heavy duty and not.
Emergency Kit• Potable Aqua• Emg Blanket• Malariapills• Leviquin 4 TD• Ice pack• Thermometers• Bandaids• Anti-Inflammation patches (USED)• Other… USED antibiotic ointment and several bandaids along with one of the disposable thermometers!
Toilettries• Tissues• Deodorant• Shaving Gel• Face/Body Wipes• 4 disposable razors• Liquid Soap/scrub• Floss• Paste• Toothbrush• Shampoo/Conditioner• Brush• Sewing Kit: Yep. Didn't foresee my conditioner and shampoo getting gross and seperating but yah. Used it all.
Emergency Dramamine: did not bring enough. Excellent in conjunction with gingerpills.
Detergent: did not bring enough! 3 liquid packs hardly! Bah!
Blister kit: didn't use but no way would i leave it at home.
Advil: Yep. Not enough.
Hand Sanitizer: Didn't use. Um...
Sun hat: Used often!
Ginger pills: Did NOT bring enough!!
Flashlight: Yep!
1 black formfit tanktop: could have brought another. Wore it almost every long travel day!
Compressed water spray: Loved it! Bring it everytime!
Money Belt: used once or twice, devil may care!
Pens: brought 3. 2 died! 1 nearly. Did not bring enough! Could not believe it.
Little kit of things: 1 Underwear, 1 pair socks, 1 longsleeve top, Gum, Burts Bee’s, Mirror, PlaneTix, Passport, Insurance proof, Bandana, Business cards, Toilet Paper, 4 TourGuide Docs (unnec apparenty) Gloss, (only needed one) Soft EarPlugs, , Binoculars + Survival Guide.

Didn't bring at the last minute:

SPF 15 max: didn't bring, should have I think. But didn't use all of any of them so maybe smaller each this next time? Loved spray!
SwissArmyKnife: Didn't bring. Stupid. Don't ever do that again. Sure you may not use the knife or the screwdriver, but the canopener uh, hullllooo. Yes. Was addicted to canned peaches and not every one had pulltops.
Knee braces: Left at home. Was that a good idea? 50/50.
Calculator: Forgot to bring. Should have brought. I'm slow at math but on the + side I got better. Ear plugs: did not use.
Black travel Pillow: not necessary. Didn't bring. Could use top but wouldn't mind if I had it.
Zip-tie Locks: Left at home.
Travel Connect 4: we were way too busy sleeping and using our ipods to use this. good to leave at home.

So Sad I Didn't Have:

Exfoliant for my face: travel grime, working out grime, smog grime, oily face grime. My face wipes could only do so much.
Dress: something light and easy wear with maybe a scarf or something. We went out to nice places enough where I felt like dressing up like a girl would have been lovely. Read other peoples commentary saying the same and ignored... silly Schu.
Oxy: for that oily sad face that was breaking out all the time on the chin.
Liquid Bandaid: good for mosquito bites and has antibiotic in it. When these little hard bites I got in monteverde started oozing I was sad not to have this. Next time for SURE!

Picked up: hammock, 2 bottles of rum, book, small volcanic rock, pack oh'souvenirs...

GOOD TIMES!

The Food...

2009-01-11T21:13:00.005-08:00

After going thru 4 memory cards and taking some 1280 photos I went thru while I was deleting and sorting to pull out some memorable food photos- only to find that there weren't that many... enough I guess... but somehow completely uninclusive and dissatisfying. I suppose though it's a good enough mix and I can only conclude that since I was alone at breakfast the most or with Cath I took pics and if i was with the group I barely ever thought of it, and also, traveling with a backpack everywhere you go gets OLD... From what I remember the food in Antigua I found the least satisfying and just a bit off except for some excellent soup and that chicken plate... and ok it wasn't all bad... Copan Hondurus was good and so was Roatan. Nicaragua was a 50/50 negotiation of lackluster to decent, except on the island of Ometepe I did get the best roast chicken and shish kabobs ever... but no photo documentation!? Horror! And I did also have the best breakfast there also... dammit, again no photos... After that Costa Rica in comparison was so expensive that even the best meals lost points due to their American gringo prices.. so i guess over all the best food I had there aren't pictures of. . . but looking back it wasn't all bad. And some of it pretty good. I think without a doubt Cen Am knows how to make good huevos, some pretty tasty rice/beans, and i do love fried plantains, and natural juice drinks like blended pineapple in a glass- pretty fantastic. Next time I vow to document the food better. Next up, definitive packing list per Danicas request and maybe some of the travel folk... I've got all the time in the world now... and I might just blog about an upcoming visit to Penelope land. That would be pretty fantastic too.

Last Photos before the Peeps

2009-01-10T11:26:00.005-08:00

The End Days

2009-01-09T15:40:00.005-08:00

(wow i went totally spy code there but here's the corrected version...
Found a computer that types both the "O" and "L" but messes up everything else and thought I'd chat you. Yesterday i got up early around 6... didn't even tell you that I woke up at 3 the other night and stepped in a big puddle of water, thought it could be something leaking, like the fridge defrosting, but sloshed through the lake to turn off the roaring load a/c and then went back to bed. Who knew the water would keep running until it flooded half the room! But I digress.

With time on my hands I journeyed by myself to Quepos on the immortal search for a hammock. Leaving Cath curled up in bed, shaking her head at my admittedly ridiculous quest. But travel like this, I decided, Is full of such self-directed assigning. Which either leads to feelings of success and heady intrepidness, or slumped over on a curb, and mumbling at yourself while clutching a map and your last Quetzal. And after peering through many closed shops and finding breakfast, sitting by the bay, circling the town like a shark and eventually checking my email; and almost sweating to death..., the kind of heat where you feel the sweat pooling and trickling down your back, to find some cold refreshing bubbly water, a few more breaks, was thwarted at everyshop I hoped was "thee" shop, and finally finally finally found a hammock to buy, buy asking, do you have any more? yes? Glorious! (insert chorus of angels). Sure now I have to figure out how to hang it, but whatever. It's beautifully colored and hopefully perfect.

So I poured myself back onto a bus that took me up up up into the hills, and then I mustered the strength to climb the vertical hill and the 10flights of stairs to the romm, where cath and isaac had returned from a swim (jealous), readying themselves for departure.

We were after lunch at the "Anaconda" again thrown into confusion at the incomprehension of being put on seperate simultaneously arriving shuttles. And as per my recent luck it took 5 1/2 hours toping my previous record of 5 to get to San Jose... As we waited for someone to not show up, picked up two really enthusiastic English people who kept tittering and using the words, oh my, dearie and, rightright. and a talker, who talked, talked talked. We then brokedown by the side of the road 10min outside of the town we just left, and waited to switch vehicles. At this point I laughed outright, refused to be dismayed, and kept a ready supply of protein at my side and offered everyone rum if we were there for much longer. I was proud of myself . Though when cath came out to hug me there was some eyerolling and mumbling.

Todays departure didn't quite hit me, that I was actually leaving somewhere going somewhere completely different until we were in the air, and I thought, this is it huh, this is over? Cath left me a lovely note and I took my taxi, wearing the new ring she gave me to replace the one I lost because she's fabulous like that. and off I went, easy as pie. I fished my phone out of my pack as we had to recheck it once we through customs, confronting the officer who said, what is "no. ho", and I refusing to explain that it was an abbreviationm. And I find, generally I get drilled by these guys and am ultimately confused by their questioning. What do you study? me:what?Well you said you did research. me: Oh! I research for a show. Then he says, What?! And its like 20 questions.

I was partly dismayed to only have 3 missed calls. Though convinient. One hangup, another misdial, and an ominous message from my boss. And true to my gut the minute I left work on that random Tuesday, I somehow knew that whatever it was, was over. But still you don't really quite believe, you think you're exaggerating and being paranoid. But I became in one quick blow, a victim of budget cuts, downsizing, and ultimately efficiency, of people getting rid of my redundant ass. And it totally sucks and it was no fun for the boss boss to tell me as I sat in the Dallas airport going, wow, it really happened and it totally still sucks. I had grown to love them and he said it was nothing I did but they couldn't afford me. And bonus I get a couple weeks severence...

And even as I wandered around the Dallas airport for the next 3 hours, looking for salsa and a cowboy hat to buy I kept telling myself, you knew this one was coming, as I'd even saved $ for my bills through January. I guess its weird to have spent a month journeying, thinking then that I was coming back to a life that I'd grown to like, a routine I guess, a settled happy feeling, only to find myself thrust out into a malliable space again. As if whatever road I was on just opened up and changed course. Like oh you thought THIS adventure, this newly flexed intrepidness was over?! Oh contraire! Let's see how much you learned!

Ready?

Liquid Stuff

2009-01-07T15:26:00.003-08:00

I'm watching liquid stuff pour from that blue thing up there. It's coming down pretty fast and there's a bird outside our window that keeps singing. Earlier there was an Iguana named Taco that was staring at us while we were swimming today and I'm killing time before dinner as we decided not to go into town today.

This is probably my last post until I reach, hopefully freerer, a less schiester like place, hopefully tomorrow night... it's like yes stick me in the middle of nowhere and trap me here and make me pay foreverythinginexpensive slightly exaggerated ways. It's a prison of my own making but whatever. And i really hate hills right now and it's a workout of like 8-10 flights up just to make it back to our room everytime i want a meal or whatever... But anyway, we made it to Manuel Antonio... But we got stuck on different shuttles. I kept trying to think if it were worth it for $40 to be alone and have it take 5 hours to get here instead of 4...which it did. I'm still out on that one as it seemed to be my most cranky travel day yet, the dreaded motion ills aside of previous posts. I guess my patience is finally at an end? My calm and carefree travel demeanour. We did cleanse our pallet with a trip to the Butterfly farm which was small, and really... come on, a better giftshop is in order but I liked learning about them and their export business and then we saw some rodent creature, crocodiles, camins and some spider monkeys jumping around in a bamboo grove on the way back to the hotel.

It is beautiful on the mountain with pools and pretty good food. And we three do operate at a mellow ease of what we want to do and when to do it. This morning we walked down to the park entrance and saw 4 or so sloths, one with babe, and the more i watch them the more i think they are incredibly cool. Along with the howler monkeys who just stared at us lazily. And a sparkly large blue butterfly coming at us down the path. We made it to an alcove, bay... and could not resist going in. I with out a swimsuit waded into the warm tourquoise waters anyway but was remorseful after the sand would not leave me, exfoliant though it might be... the racoons were entertaining if not perilously assertive... and we trudged back and found a cool haven of a taxi to take us to this bar, restaurant that has an actual plane from the iran/contra affair sitting there. Thats as far as history extends into CostaRica. or at least on this side of paradise. Otherwise really it's all about the beaches and the jungle and nothing else.

Tomorrow night more (possibly) reflections on resort living and I will eventually when you, the 3 or 4 of you reading this, have lost complete interest I will blog about my travel companions. And upload more pictures.

Adios mi amigos.

Hooray! Hooray! Hooray!

2009-01-06T22:19:00.001-08:00

Schu gets back in 4 - FOUR - days! Hooray! I miss her.

A Quick Taste of Jade

2009-01-05T20:14:00.000-08:00

San Jose in Brief

2009-01-05T20:05:00.002-08:00

La Fortuna Pics / Mt Arenal

2009-01-05T14:06:00.004-08:00

random jungle fog...
tree toed sloth-- very cool, kind of grey greenish.
giant orange black iguanas!
mt arenal shows itself for a 1/2 hour before covering up again.

Oh, Hello

2009-01-05T13:41:00.002-08:00

Dear Journal,
Though I know no one is reading this anymore, I must soldier on. After I thought about brushing my hair, I ate a muffin and contemplated the day. I put on my last clean outfit (a fetching redskirt and navy top) and we shuffled out around 9 and made it to the Jade Museum. Which you know, weirdly was all about Costa Rica even though you know, hello, Guatemala... but whatever. It's like sure all the jade came from there but whatevs man its all about the precolumbian peeps down here. Uhhuh. It was cool even if small and totally lacking a giftshop?! Whatever.

After that more wandering. Some eating. Wandering. Bought shampoo and conditioner. And back for the day until dinner. We 3 are set on a mellow relaxed pace. I'm really looking forward to the beach and though I would have missed the Jade Museum I'm sorry Cath couldn't get us out of here sooner. Because, hello, the beach!

Ah well. So long for now. Some agua con gas and pringles await me. Maybe I'll play some pool or watch a really bad movie.

And I've tried to load pics but to no avail. We'll see.

Down the River and Thru the Woods, by Schu

2009-01-04T12:25:00.003-08:00

Now that Cath and I are together she can harass me about blogging. So here I am. Otherwise I might just be in a stupor, wondering what it all means and by that I mean sleeping.

I was mostly bored on the 3rd as my roommates and tourguide slept off hangovers in my room and I kept trying to get a hold of Cath who was recouperating from her trip down the mountain. I didn't have the heart to wake them after they fell asleep after lunch, watching bad movies and intermittently enjoying the beautiful vista of the city from our hotel room. Driven to it, by nothing else to do I just waited for dinner. Where our 2nd last, really last final dinner was had. I had this amazing blended coffee drink with strawberries, tipped Martin and wrote him down a Nicaraguan poem Cath gave me, which is still a fav, and as usual a pleasant time was had by all. Then we capped it off with some gambling in the casino in our hotel room. I won $4. It was pretty awesome. And then after more goodbye hugs I packed my bags and dreaded the 530am wakeupcall so I could get to Cath's hotel in time. And so kept waking up every hour.

This was the only time Tico time... as in whenever, usually really late, was experienced by me. I left a goodbye note to Agnethe and Harriette and slipped out into the dawn. Then sat with Cath and Isaac for about an hour while we waited. At one point a slightly miffed (turned out to be an emergency kayaker) told us the bus was late because people were late. So we slumped on a bench and idly chatted, listening to the chirp of the crosswalk signal and awaiting our fate.

Most everything was uneventful from the busride to the amusing raft guide who talked about what to do if someone fell overboard. Pull them up by their nose? yes... But except for 3 sets of people everything else faded dull. 1: obnoxious central californians and I say this with my english amigos in mind. Unreserved, animatedly chatting, making loud obnoxious and out of context comments about barbed wire and CalState Fullerton. But most of them were adolescent boys and boyscouts at that, so it is expected. We got stuck with them on the tractor truck ride down to the drop point and I just kept slumping my head on Cath's shoulder as I intermittently looked for wildlife, to shut them up or ways to just leap from the truck... but saw Just vultures circling overhead and my legs grated against the dust of the woodplanks I was sitting on.

2: The Borats: So named by Isaac. They were a very well built muscular pair, who wore speedos and were generally ambivilant about even the slightest morays of what might be well... weird or civilized. Besides the fact that as Cath said, they waxed their entire bodies, they also reclined their seats all the way and then put their feet up over the seats in front of them, both demonstrating their flexibility and drawing everyones attention, and threatening the head of the guide in front of them. Also they wore white ankle socks with their teva sandals and nothing else... besides the speedos. And one, definitely winked at one of the boys in my raft. And I felt slightly scandalized but the boys couldnt speak english but it was funny to watch their eyes go wide and dart back at one another.

3: The boys. They were laughing fun loving very cute spanish boys. One had the most amazing greenish sparkly eyes, whom I had to help into the raft whenever there was a swim point and he was very nice and generally having a good time along with his friend. He turned back to wave goodbye to me as we boarded the bus one last time. We smiled. I could have stared into those eyes forever. I was sorry to leave him.

At the drop point we learned some basic commands. My favorite was Oh My God, Oh My God. say in a cute spanish accent. You see, I'm not alone in my frequent evocation of Dios Mio! This command was to propel us all into the raft in a hunched together position, to keep us from falling out as we ping ponged against large rocks and down rapids. We did this often. I think it also increased the fun factor. My least favorite phrase was Pura Vida. They really like it here in San Jose and at the rafting company. I like the more literal meaning of the phrase "pure life" but it means more to them like "the good life, or good times" which may or not be pure at all... more intoxicated if anything but whatever... Pura Vida! All oars into a highfive.

The river was quite wide and the water levels had dropped, I think, a smidge too low to make it truly a wild ride. As when the river was full it took 2 1/2 hours. Where as ours took like, 4! It was more a work out with some really spectacular vistas. Just huge canopies of trees jutting up and into infinity everywhere you looked. And cascading waterfalls. It was overwhelming. And the river cold and refreshing. I declined to jump in, mainly because I didn't think anyone had the strength to get me back in, as even at the last point my arms were getting tired hauling my cute greeneyed boy in, he and I both laughing and grinning as he flopped about like a caught fish and then scrambled to help his friend. I couldn't imagine getting myself back in the raft, so I took my helmet and doused myself. Though at one point as we were at a beached point, I got out and accidentally filled my shorts with silt, which I of course regretted the rest of the time as I tried to ferret out gravel from my ass, and besides there were 2 loop points that my left leg kept chaffing against. I was a wiggle worm. It was fun to watch Cath and Isaac get moved to the front of the raft, as they had to synchronize with each other, a true team/relationship bldg exercise, though they couldnt hear the commands... and I with my, I've done this before, need to be perfect attitude, almost fell in once. I felt my guides hand reach out for me but I just barely tipped back in as we hit another rock.

I chatted with my guide a little and accidentally said Antigua was the capitol of Guatemala. I burn with shame still. He was nice to chat and young, so he talked more in spanish to the cute boys. But I liked him. Though outside of rafting with his green hat and poised attitude, he donned a diamond stud and baggy jean shorts- andI was tempted to be like, west-siiiide, thug life. As his pura vida was, had to be the great outdoors, I wished he dressed a little bit more caribbean than LA hiphop guy... And he and the assistant guide looked askance at the idea of me traveling through central america. I suppose it could be the equivalant of me saying I was going down to TJ for hookers and nose candy. Costa Rica really is quite westernized. And they have the eco-tourism thang down.

But anyway back to the river. We got stuck on some low rocks a few times. No one fell out and by the time we got back to the rest stop at 330, Isaac motion sick and Cath exhausted. I sat tired but still full of energy as I scraped up every last bit of gallo pinto and fajita chicken off my plate into my mouth and contemplated buying some pics. C and I were less enthused to help spend the $40 total it would take, so no photos for me. It's like I have no proof. I might as well have just made this all up like the ziplining.

So I passed out in the bus and a couple hours later made it back to the hotel, where I faught off sleep until 9pm and didn't wake up until 730am. I could've slept longer still...

I am now completely out of clean clothes, have seen all there is to see of San Jose and await the beach, which apparently we aren't spending enough time at. I blame interbus, though i'm sure efficient way more expensive and not as ultimately convenient as the local buses. But I digress. The beach is going to be fantastic no matter what. I suppose there's a limit to how much laying out you can do anyway. As long as I can get a hammock.

So, overall rafting was Thumbs Up fun. Not as anxiety inducing as the Royal Gorge but had more variety and the scenery, wow... epic.

Hazy Days

2009-01-03T08:58:00.003-08:00

Yesterday I meandered around San Jose, and by that I mean, stayed pretty much to the center of town as according to everyone, it is some tourist-crime haven. I can't say its worse than seeing anti-pickpocket signs through italy, or even just driving through guatemala city but I'll be cautious. But6 it does instill some automatic, must depart place button. Part of me, now that the group has split- half of us our left... will have to post about them when i{m alone and free and clear somehow, but I feel like I should be on the move but aren´t or that i'm in some bizarre holding pattern of pulling from one world and out into another. Much more on my own and relaxed and familiar... but maybe too¿ But I'll try not to feel the threads twining too tightly to action as sometimes what you need is to not go anywhere for a while. Wherever you are. And as it is I'm going rafting tomorrow. So what if today and the day after are filled with wanderings and nothing muchess. After that its 3 days on the beach... and thats a whole different kind of lounging all together... Do I push to see one more volcano? A waterfall? Go into the jungle... again, and again, and again...

Last night we all said goodbye and in our group fashion it was reserved and mellow and somewhere along i lost my fantastic new ring. Which left me obsessing all about where I mightve placed it, in my day... in my evening. And had all these anxieties about hotel switches, rafting and who knows what, as if my roommate had left traces of worry all over me before she left. I woke up to say goodbye to her at 5am and remembered sometime before her waking up and saying, what's going on, what's happening. and me saying, don't worry, it's ok... go back to bed. And then later I gave her a half asleep hug and mumbled brave adventurer before going back to bed. And she left quickly before getting too emotional.

I woke up this morning to a very nice and even better, complimentary breakfast: cereal, toast, huevos, pineapple, papaya, watermelon-- oh so good! And then had a 2nd smaller breakfast when Harriet Agnethe and Martin tumbled from their rooms. Some usual banter came up and then I mentioned Pompeii a couple too many times and Martin started getting sarcastic and I told him to .... off. (omg... blogger just dot.dot.dotted my f-bomb¡¿) Awesome. Anyway. Then we proceeded to harang each other about saving his immortal soul. Because all americans are classically interested in doing just that to every athiest we meet. I think he just wanted to pick a fight. I guess I'll still give him a tip but now of course, every night when I pray, just because he was such a bastard my list will say: pray for Martin's immortal soul. Amen.

***

And now its off for yet another hotel switch and more wandering and re-reuniting with Cath and Isaac... who have just gone ziplining¡¿ Can't wait to hear all about it. So psyched to have them with me!

Postcards Received

2009-01-02T10:10:00.000-08:00

The Next Day, by Schu

2009-01-01T13:26:00.006-08:00

Back at it.
Met Cath and Isaac for a morning walk of the base of Mt Arenal. Enter at Your Own Risk signs made us feel doubly intrepid and the thundering sound of rocks spinning down the west slope was pretty fantastic. Most of Arenal however is shrouded in fog currently. As promised I returned to my grounded, meandering ways and enjoyed a trek into some high grasses where tigers could hide and then just to the right a rain forest. It was fun to experience such a sharp turn in climate and just the little jaunt was much more intimate and overwhelming then even the lush and protected cloudforest... Cath seemed not to want to stray too far into the jungle and when we startled a turkey vulture and caused us all to jump a little, I can understand why. But it was cool and shady and lovely. We then joined the que to the volcano rocks, where there was a view of the lake and several more views of the rocks thundering down, and epidendrum orchids and lilies sprouting up. A flying toucan! which I yelled out to Cath, which caused a multitude of tourists to whip out their binoculars and snap their zm lens in the direction of my outstretched finger. Then walking back I saw a snake that had red-black stripes causing me to hault the group with a gasp and say, guys! i think that´s a snake! ooo. Obvious. But I´m the only one who saw it. Then the mystery bird 2nd photo down, and an army of ants stretching around a building and threading through the grassy fields of the park entrance.

After such an exhilirating time of it especially on the eve of the new year it was time for drinks at the pool and a good long soak. Fan'tastic. It was a particularly epic and lovely morning.

I then met the group for dinner whereeveryone was already 2 sheets to the wind, and headed very reluctantly to a discotheque which was fine until the stripper slash duff girls showed up... but the beer is called imperial- and the M-C was annoying and wouldn´t shut up the entire night...though the guy dancers were entertaininig... but still... it made it more about them and not us, and the music, only so'so. And after such a contrast to peace and relaxment, it was jarring in the extreme. I drank beer which I hate, stuffed toilet paper in my ears, tried to dance, but to no avail as every fiber of my being was bored and completely anti-whatever it was that was going on in there. Yah, yah, yah happy new year! Julie and I and Marianna took a cab home as Martin tried to drunkenly explain to the cab driver our needs. I think we would have managed but nonetheless, being told I love you, I really do- by unsober people on New years is par for the course. And overall it was a good end to a pretty fabulous year. So long 2008!

Down the Mountain, by Schu

2008-12-31T11:16:00.004-08:00

the photos run in the reverse, and i think i was too busy trying not to be ill to catch the treacherous road down the mountain but there it is.

Early morning start... ok not that early, 8am. The mystery bug still with most of the people. Had a lovely breakfast of eggs,toast,fruit and tea. Said goodbye to our loveable dog that had adopted us and I took one ginger pill and my emergency supply of dramamine. 1 tablet. I being one of the least ill in my car took the back right seat in the van and half way down the lurching, breaking, swerving, swaying less smoothe than a packaderm trip down the mountain my ears were starting to burn. The first telltale sign of being completely off my rocker nauseous. I quick ferreted out another pill and another ginger tablet and made a little lake in my mouth and popped them both in. There was some audible sighs and I might have said, ´´shit¨ a couple of times as my head thwaked against the window. Sleep, without the blue pills was near impossible... as this was a fancy less drowsy pill. We stopped at a shop and I grabbed some soda water and watched a few mountain ducks in a pond and it was back into the van, cursing the quakers and the locals who refuse to pave the road. I defended my position about the pointlessness of suffering in this rustic quaint way, but then Julie said that visiters increased at Machu Picchu once part of the roads there were paved, by 1000 aday... but what do i know.

Stupid Roads!

The 2nd pill started kicking in and I was drowsy and cold by the time we reached Lake Arenal- manmade apparently and supplying 50% of costa rican electricity... who knew. We were ferryed across to what I thought the roadsides of central america should have looked like from the beginning. Lush. But the jungle having been hacked away in most places along all of the drives. Which I think is why I liked Hondurus so much- I just stared out into epic consuming jungleness. But anyway it was a short drive into La Fortuna proper and it was nothing but a sea of luxury retreats and spa get aways. The town is nice and mostly filled with souvenir shops and a really spectacular place to get a good fajita. One of the best things Ive had here.

Unfortunately on our way to the guideoperator shop, before lunch, to arrange optional activities I saw a dog get hit by a car. The number of strays is minimal here compared to the rest of cen am but I suppose statistically it has to happen... but anyway completely traumatizing. Mostly because Julie took it so hard and I myself who actually saw the dog get hit had that dark hard feeling in my chest. As the dog got taken under the wheel it jumped up and yelped a few times as Julie started to dart into the road screaming that we needed to help it, it dropped down dead. And I was so so so thankful. We weren´t equipped to help it and I think the end would have been the same, but it was brutal to hear the cry and it seemed to be staring right at us in pain, with its foot mangled and crying...we had to just keep walking as she sobbed. And just that morning we´d said goodbye to our adopted dog back in monteverde. And then while sitting at the guide shop with Julie brimming with tears and everyone else sort of somber and wanting to forget I looked out a tiny ledge and saw a warbler bird body slamming a small lizard into the cement over and over again. Nature is brutal people, even in all its glory. I could not help but stare wide eyed at the odd correlation of events swimming around me.

And then after lunch it was off to try and find Cath and Isaac and not let the first words out of my mouth be- dead dog. But they´d seen it maybe minutes after so it was still something shared. And all of that passing rapidly away it was strange to see them in this reality. As if something wasn´t quite right. The group. My friends... same place. But seperate. So I spent sometime in their posh place up the road from my hotel soaking my feet in a hot tub, eating pizza and watching bad movies... Then made a dark walk back to my hotel, peering around nervously ocassionally as I passed the graveyard and then the massive ant colony, wondering where exactly I was and what had happened.

Santa (bonus post)

2008-12-30T21:59:00.003-08:00

Though its already fast becoming a blur, I will quick tell you about the secret santa, since you 2 wanted to know... it was a high pressure deal of $5 and a trip to an artisan market, which was small... julie said lets meet back in an hour and that didn´t seem nearly so long as it should- and some guy latched himself onto me and tried to get money by taking me to all the shops-- as if! and then some old woman kept petting my back and begging for money... at the end point she said something i think spiteful about Americans and I gave her the stink eye. But I digress. There was a large inflatable Santa in our hotel lobbey. And we were to wrap the gifts in newspaper or whatever we could find, colorful plastic bags from the snack shops... mine was in a newspaper poorly tied with a palm frond but I think it was a drunken effort and definitely from a guy... funny. I think everyone liked their gifts... tshirts, trinkets, belts, and a wallet, a sarang... and coffee. A pretty good conglamoration. I kept telling everyone who mine was and asking for help, not that I was mining for who had me. I probably will offer the gift I got to the masses. It´s a cute souvenir wallet but someone might use it more, or I will- it makes no matter. As Christmas didn´t seem to exist here for me without friends and family it didn´t really make a difference¿ Or rather there was no expectation... but just some good intentioned fun. And it was nice. And my group is really quite full of lovely people.

Monteverde Cloud Forest (pum)

2008-12-30T21:51:00.000-08:00

Border Crossings (pum)

2008-12-30T21:27:00.004-08:00

Ometepe (pum)

2008-12-30T20:16:00.006-08:00

San Juan Del Sur (pum)

2008-12-30T18:26:00.006-08:00

Granada (pics u missed)

2008-12-30T18:16:00.001-08:00

Masaya Volcano: Pics you Missed (granada)

2008-12-30T18:11:00.002-08:00

The Quetzal

2008-12-29T21:29:00.002-08:00

Type: Bird
Diet: Omnivore
Size: Body, 15 to 16 in (38 to 40.5 cm); Tail, 24 in (61 cm)
Weight: 7 to 8 oz (200 to 225 g)
Protection status: Threatened

The resplendent quetzal is an aptly named bird that many consider among the world's most beautiful. These vibrantly colored animals live in the mountainous, tropical forests of Central America where they eat fruit, insects, lizards, and other small creatures.

During mating season, male quetzals grow twin tail feathers that form an amazing train up to three feet (one meter) long. Females do not have long trains, but they do share the brilliant blue, green, and red coloring of their mates. Male colors tend to be more vibrant.

Resplendent quetzal pairs use their powerful beaks to hollow hole nests in rotted trees or stumps. Inside, they take turns incubating two or three eggs—though males have such long tails that they sometimes stick outside the nest.

Young quetzals can fly at about three weeks of age, but males do not begin to grow their long tail plumes for three years.

Resplendent quetzals are also known as Guatemalan quetzals, and the birds are the symbol of that nation. Guatemala also trades in currency known as the "quetzal".

Unfortunately, these striking birds are threatened in Guatemala and elsewhere throughout their range. They are sometimes trapped for captivity or killed, but their primary threat is the disappearance of their tropical forest homes. In some areas, most notably Costa Rica's cloud forests, protected lands preserve habitat for the birds and provide opportunities for ecotourists and eager bird watchers from around the globe.

Such admirers continue a long history of adoration for the quetzal. The bird was sacred to the ancient Maya and Aztec peoples, and royalty and priests wore its feathers during ceremonies.

Have Fun, Dont Die, by Schu

2008-12-29T18:04:00.005-08:00

I know seriously, I actually did this. What the hell. At first the place I wanted was fully booked and then I was peer pressured into "Extremo"... I thought, dear god, what the hell am I doing. I do not exaggerate that these are the actual views. Though lugging my camera along as I trekked up mountain trails, and even they do not do it justice to the depth and height of propelling yourself above Gods green earth... and then hurdling at high speed seemed less than a stellar idea so I can not furnish you with evidence. Except, seriously, what was I thinking!

But ok, heres the thing, Im sitting in the office feeling whiny that the one I wanted was full and then this one they say, ok, theres room, but theres a weight limit. Awesome. Which granted in the back of my mind I knew, and was prepared for, but the reality of being too heavy for an activity is still a blow to selfesteem and the slow but progressive weightloss made so far. Im trying! I want to scream out. And then have a tantrum. I say to my tactful guide Martin, I am undertheweightlimit but JUST barely. Hes like well if youre under, youll be fine... but secretly all night Im thinking up rejection scenarios, involving the finger of death, columns of smoke, and sacrificing myself to a volcano, just so I dont have to hear those skinny bitches go, aw, saaaad. And Im already saying it myself anyway, aw, youre sad.

So people thought it was nerves, but really it was fear of rejection, grappling with fat, selfesteem, image, and ýah, snapping wires and falling to a grizzly and painful death. Not to mention the food in Monteverde mostly sucks and is overpriced. Sure I had a spectacular chocolate milkshake last night but the quesidilla was crap and tonight they had the nerve to sell me dark meat on a chicken and call it a filet. Insulted I tell you!

But anyway, we start the day with an idyllic nature hike, half the group taken out by the mystery illness, and the rest slog through and take the place completely for granted and Im trying my hand at American enthusiasm and asking all sorts of questions. We do spot the rare quetzal- which is a gorgeous bird. If I had a proper (ahem) support team Id be able to tell you more, though it is the holidays. (Ahem). We saw a badger type things, various birds and a trantula and all in all it was just my speed. Meandering through nature. Going to hummingbird outlooks and petting the mossy trees and taking pictures of Julie eating a medicinal plant thats suppose to help with nausea. But for all that, its gorgeous and messy and hard to capture and I suppose easy to gloss over the fact that monkeys exist and are trapseing above the forest canopy completly out of your reach.

Naturally needing extremes I had time to grab a last meal and be one with the soaring vultures. I again, head hanging low and dogearred, got into the van to meet my doom, thinking, obviously everyone must be thinking im too fat to be here... but as it was it melted away and I was being trussed up, harnassed, and reassured that I was going to have a good time... and my pulse started doublestepping it, as I deepbreathed and shook my head and repeatedly with each line, each flight of stairs and winding path, my god, my god, what have i done!

As each one you conquer your fear of death only to be faced with it again, 10minutes later. Truly these lines were epic and spanned the canyon. A few smaller... hopping here and there... trudge trudge trudge... and you go through a routine, is this harness getting more uncomfortable, the guide asks if youre having a good time, you like a zombie nod yes. They hook you, they unhook you and you face falling, you face getting stuck in the middle of amile in no mans land, feeling like icarus.

Not to say it was all life and death and routine... there was a few hairy incidents where, because of my weight i did have to go full tilt or risk getting stuck, and likewise the skinny folks at times had to pair up because they were too light. During one particular moment I was coming to fast but the sun was high and the guide was shaded and yes, I "tried" to "stop"... since the guide only gives you 2 signs- speed up, or, slow the fuck down youre going to die. So naturally I cant quite tell what hes saying until the hands go out like hes a wall to my macktruck... and my tattered glove almost comes off as I press on the wire, getting jerked around by the friction, but hey, I made it, with half the runway left. I heave a sigh of relief and everyone starts talking about how nervous the guides got, then David arrives right after and says, You were going FAST! Death ZERO. SCHU 1.

Then there was another long one where, I followed the guides directions and stopped but too much so, and became stalled about 30ft out, to avoid a collision. He being a macho and resiliant 16 yr old thought hed just zip out and haul my tonofbricks in. Oh not so mi amigo. I was doing fine on my own until you showed up. So then naturally they send another person hurdling toward me and well I get back alright but 4 people all twined together get stranded 100ft out, and naturally the plucky and arrogant muchacho zips out to save them. Right. We cheered them on but David who was already ill was pushed to the limit, dangling and twisting in space. And the guide several times had to stop and rest and tip backwards as hed bitten off more than he could chew. But in the end we all made it and the rest was smoothe sailing...

Until it came time to repel... which basically means they kick you off a ledge and tell you to hold on. I burned up a portion of glove trying to slow down. Yes, I admit, trust exercises... I have my limits... But having survived the 2 story drop we soldiered on up and up to the ominous "Tarzan Swing" where we heard Harriettes blood curdling scream as she was pushed from the ledge and hurdled free flying twisting into space. At this point David was really hoping Id back out so he could, but when Harriette said, SCHU, youve come this far, it lit an automatic switch in my brain to keep going. She said, scream. I said I dont scream...

And as the guide said, bend your knees, and off the platform I went, ripping through the air and closer and closer to a massive tree, I gasped and then yelled with echoing bellow strength, OHHHH MMYYYYYYYY GOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOD!

holyshit.
fuck.
oh
my
god
i could kiss that tree
fuck
ohmygod.

They cheered me on and as my weighted benefit momentum eventually started coming to rest it was time for the guides to catch me in a black harness... the first time failed and I swung and swung, and lowered my legs for drag then got suckered in by the waist and caught flailing like a fish as mz release was stuck and tangled up, but eventually, shaking with adreneline and harassed for my Valley Oh, M-Gawd, ways, I was cheered and happy to be done with it. And not too nauseous either.

To lull us into a false sense of finish we sat and sat and then climbed and climbed to be confronted with the last 3 lines. I said, Great, 3 more chances to die. David said, thats a bit grim.

2 down and the big mammoth one to go again I went full tilt into space, legs bent, ankles crossed, not breaking until the end, looking out over the valley, recognizing my madness but in awe over the epic wildnerness and the exileration of me suspended on a wire with only the birds went, left me feeling dazed and in a dream. The guide said, you landed good, very good. Like a pro. Im sure he says that to everyone but I tipped them well anyway and was giddy and high the whole way home. But tomorrow besides the buses and 2 ferry crossings, this girl is going to hover low to the ground for a while, munch on grass, and only look up at passing cars or perhaps someone calling me, and telling me, youre so far from finished... next, youll know what its like to rush through water... But not for a few days yet anzway. Its time to rest.

hitting the trail . . .

2008-12-29T07:30:00.001-08:00

toes are painted, litter is changed, seeds and nuts have been purchased, bags are packed and I and me are on our way to Costa Rica . . . .

On the Fence

2008-12-28T10:46:00.003-08:00

The blue pill still in effect I had no trouble with the mountainous wending way up up up to the breezy, drizzling Monteverde. This place was a hopping chalk full of tourists type of town. A mix of snotty adventerous types and familys on holiday... so obnoxious are we that the quakers refused to have the road paved up, thinking that at least dirt might keep tourism down... I disagree. The people who would come up are going to come up regardless. The road would have to get a lot worse then a few near treacherous drops and giant mud holes. Our van, a.c off and trundling up the mountain like a pack animal.

David (one of the brits) and mountain climbers of the weekend, had a couple projectile hurtling stops and close calls. Which heralded the demise of health of at least 6 people on the tour. I shudder to think air bourne virus... But we landed in a small hotel place and met a cute local dog that didnt seem rabid and was pretty wonderful. We were told of course no dogs in the rooms so kidnapping was out. I suppose it was best.

Im killing time now before we go ziplining... and ill have time to blog all about that tonight if I survive. The one I wanted to go on was sold out and the one Im going on is apparently less spectacular of a forest but faster... uh, huh. Yah. Theres no time for the butterfly farm and I suppose I could always put the frog farm on credit card... how many does one get to see in a lifetime-- I said no to the serpentorium having been to a pretty fantastic one in NC.

So Ill say goodbye for now as this keyboard is all funked up and the bus is coming in a 1.2 hour. I just have time to get some soda water and say my prayers. Check in on my ailing friends and try not to think about plummeting to my death. Im thrilled at my decision to go, no really, Im sure its going to be great.

Sigh.

Godforsaken Island

2008-12-27T10:20:00.001-08:00

Along with my ginger pills, with every ferry crossing I take some mysterious blue pills. And they knock me right out, so that when the ferry guy pokes me hard with his finger, I resent it and point upstairs to where the rest of the team is sitting... getting tan, frolicking, whatever, just not sea sick. And I close my blood shot eyes and go back to sleep, getting hit by seaspray and leaving myself open to robbers. The first time though I woke up and it took me a while to realize my bag was in a pool of seawater, I just hope that the spare socks and underwear and travel documents spared the more priceless items like my phone. The next time I learned my lesson, and put my bag on the bench, still waking up to curious stares from the locals, but I was dry...

We traveled to Ometepe. The land of two mountains. Except when we got there we found out the beach was under 6ft of water and a perpetual and violent windstorm didnt show signs of abating. And being trapped on an island even if it is in Nicaragua means they can charge unreasonable prices for some of the best grilled chicken Ive had, which was like $8. The fresh pineapple juice was also good. But basically that was my central activity. Eating. And 2 days was a blow to my budget...so I charged it. Sleeping in a hammock was my 2nd main activity... Meandering around watching Magpie Jays and seeing how drunk the two old guys were going to get was 3rd... Exploring boredom while other more silly people climbed a near 45 degree mountain face of Concepcion, was the basic theme. Their vigor was taken with a vengence as most of them are curiously ill and vomiting... we cant figure out what it was between them. But the poor souls are hobbling around the mountainous Monteverde now.

I cant say we were sad to leave the island, even though in its visceral moments it was awesomely, I dont know... atmospheric. Everything just whipped up and moving and in a loud frenzy, restless and consuming were the waves and everzthing in motion. We trudged ourselves out of bed around 6am on Sunday, van to the ferry, ferry to the taxis, to the van, where apparently we had the fastest border crossing ever from Nicaragua to Costa Rica, flipping up mud on our heels and legs and making it to the land of tourists and shopping centers. Theres something relaxing about civilazation as we know it, like you dont have to think about anything ever, but then its fairly boring also... something hesitant and inviting about shacks and ramshackled cement places, not so with uniform spanish tiling and gigantic shopping centers that met us near the border. They asked me if it was like american shopping centers.. i said, mostly like the ones near the southern beaches... but you know the a-c would be going stronger, and theyd have more to chose from then just azul for your pens, and cadberry for your chocolate, but itd have to do.

Christmas Snow Caps

2008-12-26T21:30:00.000-08:00

A broken port robs you of pictures, alas. I am back from the land of no internet. To recap: Christmas Eve included me going out dancing under duress, because it was going to be fun they said, including Harriet who said she had to have me there, but almost immediately could not resist the allure of the hot danish guy, and so ran off and left me. Whatevs. Just know that I was on a 2nd story open bar with the wind whipping through the dark wood frames, in a flowee white skirt, and the rain intermittently dashing in, and julie and I created a dance space and moved to the beat all night long, until people started making out, and that girl over there was crying in the corner and they played one too many hiphop songs and somebody spilled Matt's drink. They all said I could move my hips. And I agree.

Christmas day included a trip to a secluded beach where the sand is so fine it adheres to you without provocation and were the Aussie Anna got attacked by a jelly fish. And something mysterious swiped at my ankle. And left a wound. Tempted to pee on it too? Maybe. It did not stop us from drinking rum out of pineapple husks however. I then caught a shuttle back to avoid a 30min crap walk. Who wants to do that after laying out all day and drinking? Not I. Even if it was just a little bit. Which left me at the lovely Mango Resort to swim without fear of death by fish in the warm waters of a pool as the sunset blazed. And then sometime after a pretty fabulous, even if pricey, Turkey dinner replete with stuffing, whipped mash and all sorts of wonderful.

We also had secret santa and plenty of toasts. I told Martin the tour leader that we should get a birthday cake and sing to Jesus but he didn't quite understand why, and so insisted on telling us about Fredrick the mouse enjoying spring and not collecting food, bcs he was so busy basking in the freedom of every day things... though the tale is somewhat convoluted as it ended with an expensive dinner at a resort but I digress. I think in hindsight after all the comings and goings, it was a pretty fabulous Christmas. Happy Birthday Jesus.

Feliz Navidad!

2008-12-25T09:58:00.002-08:00

Wishing you peace, joy, and lots more fun as your adventure continues! Miss you Schu!!!

On the Eve of?

2008-12-24T13:37:00.002-08:00

There are signs of Christmas, even in the ragandtag tumbled down Central America. Crowded with ramshackled buildings, belching smoke, a glorious consuming jungle. There are jingle bells and fireworks and girls wearing wedding dresses. There are poinsettias growing wild and spindly red. There are through each open door a dim and shadowy cool courtyard, a glowing Christmas Tree, usually fake. There are the lights hanging on various bars in all the various byways, through mountains and on the beach towns. There are the giant snowglobes and the monolithic inflated Santa at our current hotel and all the silver clustered bangled ornamentations. But mostly it is some other kind of holiday, away from the routine, letting myself be recorded upon only to find out what plays later. . . is that the gift...

Today there was 2 chicken buses and bags hoisted up and down. Noisy tourists and a loud speaking foreigner right next to my ear right now. The others have gone on a boat tour and fishing expedition and I'm not pushing my luck. And I've got to blog don't I. As all the journel entries I've tried to write lay untouched in the land of night fatigue, telemundo and hbo. So I've bought some souvenirs and a bottle of Flor de Cana and am going to wander maybe 2 blocks around the town. Tomorrow is the nice beach and hammock land... and our secret santa exchange.

By Land, By Sea, By Schu

2008-12-23T21:49:00.001-08:00

The girl could not decide what to do. Boat tour. City tour? But the girl chose kayaking. She spent the morning flirting with a big green parrot named ZsaZsa and eating massive portions of eggs, bacon and hash. And as an afterthought swallowed a reluctant ginger pill in preparation for a hopefully idyllic river wander?

The girl then boarded the van with the other more animated and plucky adventurers and all eyes widened at the white wake on the water. The lake wasn't calm and the girl grew afraid that she had once again chosen folly over a wiser course. With trepidation she left her bag in the van and was one of the last to launch in the gritty sludge and reeds of the bank.

With a deep breath she took to the paddle and asked where they were going. Martin replied, follow the guide. Yes well, but where are we going?! So massive the lake, so deep the swells. The girl did not want to be lost forever at sea and the kayak itself, yellow, fiber glass and the rim closed in, though sea worthy did not seem the best at capsizing gracefully. She could only hope to hit calmer water and closer banks soon.

The girl remembered to keep the balance in her core and later shifted her legs back and forth with not too much anxiety. Still, prayers were muttered, and her friends now clearly keened in to her motion sick self, are you ok? Are you enjoying it? How are you doing? Good. Bueno, the girl smiled and nodded, quietly, possibly with an air of reserve that disaster at any moment could befall her. She wasn't concerned about anyone but herself, as it now seemed a concurrent running theme.

And then they hit the quiet channels of the lake buffeted by island baracades. Trees dipped low into the water and her kayak guided quietly over lily pads, near roots dangling from trees. The girl glanced out into the open and through the tall grasses and parrot screeching. A boy cast a net and dove in the water to anchor it to the bottom of the bank. Dogs barked from the saftey of homes, and rowboats passed with the look of, so, you odd bunch in the small boats, what do you think you're doing here exactly? The guide asked if she kayaked before. An inditement or? No, a compliment. You look good. You professional. And the girl glowed with pride. She would take this little bit and carry it home with her. Snd then rolled her eyes now at the reprecusions of looking like she knew what she was doing. No panic. Only grace. Smoothe, fluid movements. A cool head. The form and move, just right. Nothing goes wrong when you know what you're doing.

But the calm only lasted in the moments where she was protected and with each island came a treacherous inlet to be crossed, where she had to dig her paddle deep, and think about conserving energy for the trip back. Mercifully they came to a restaurant on the water with fresh coconuts and club soda. So the girl disembarked, keeping low to the rocks, thankful at not capsizing with each breath. There was the unpleasant smell of burning rubbish. A popular thing to do apparently, even in a wouldbe paradise. But the spray of the water and the fizz of her drink kept the thoughts of the return trip at bay. Lunch would be small then and made up of bird things.

And when the wind had calmed they came to a small island with monkeys that could not escape it. Water locked they were and fed by tourists. She had seen worse cages but there was the one monkey who had no tail- that had tried to cross the phone lines draping suspect and high above the water. The lines felt like home even over water against the blue sky, but she could not help but be sad for the monkeys. And then the horse carts that keep the colonial charm but seem far too skinny...

And then the girl thought, ok, just a bit more to go and back, but they stopped at a fort. And the girl grew impatient and thought, again, I have to get out again!? She tumbled onto the high launch, straining the guides balancing skills and made her way to the fort and climbed the steep high stairs to the top, to the idyllic view of some volcano rimmed with clouds and the sparkling water and the trees bowing at the breeze. Pirates, ok. Yes. Spanish. English. There's the canon. Then the guide gave all the girls these things that looked like sticks but when you opened them were beautiful flowers. Had a gorgeous fragrance. There were pictures taken. Her adventure hat raked to the side- dashing. And now it was back to the water, sleepy from the sun and hungry. She could not even regret the dancing all night in her last night in Leon- a rum shot, mojito, something, something and silly dance tunes, the motion of that compartively calmer than all those waves and moving water.

But the wind had died down on the surface of the water and her kayak tired and logged down with a passanger of dubious merriment, trudged with one stroke after the next, trailing everyone. The girl sighed loudly, let her hands trail in the water. Where are we going exactly? Is there some point? Is that the shack? Is this the way? And the girl made it to land and smiled.

Only to be pushed onto a chicken bus several hours later on a return trip from a decent but small artisan market which left her walking blocks and blocks following speedy gonzalez. She did at one point help a man at the back of the bus from tumbling out of it, as the emergency door was open and the man- manning the back had gone up to the top as they roared down the road. It was entertaining, and the capsizing was different. The negotation of people and things around her moving instead of she. And she got to watch and hear the whistles and calls and the baskets flying and the people hailing as she leaned and bumped against on solid rattling high speed moving ground.

The chicken curry she had for dinner and the fireworks exploding all around her seemed tame in comparison.

Persephone

2008-12-22T21:27:00.001-08:00

We arrived in Granada and left its parallel sister Leon. These waring brothers could not be more different. And the conservative Granada, mellow, quiet side of town with fireworks but less people, clearly defined colonial architecture and all the rest that screams tourist, and also a bit of peace. I know my speed. And shoo the peddlers away, non, non, non. And continue suping my club soda. And in siesta moments inclining my head down the slope of the street to the massive freshwater sea, mascarading as a lake. (Nicaragua).

After just a couple hours downtime it was time for our next excursion. Another Volcano. I thought, yes, I did sign up for the "volcano adventure" but so much direct interaction with the pacific rim of fire seemed overkill. Yes, belching smoke. Ok. Gritty black sand. Lava. Active. Dormant. Signs this way and that to volcano, volcano, volcano. Ok enough, I said, with the wave of my hand. Lo siento. I'm sorry. I give in.

And yet, we keep going. When the guide pointed the way up these winding stairs, to a cross, overlooking a crater, I was like oh, dios mio. Here we go again. So I took the back and me and my now bum of a left leg hobbled to the top to hear about poisonous sulfur gas and various smoking craters... yes, yes, volcanos are cool. Whatever.

Hobble down.

Then the guide led us up another far bigger dormant crater to point out the trees and parrots and I muttered, oh how i love being the last one, now prone to motion sickness and various, schu? are you ok? comments. A complete reversal of being. I made it to the top, only about 10 min, but then refused to summit the top steep peak, as I said to myself, yes you know how far you can go. Enough is enough. I don't know why all tourist destinations must include epic vistas and sunsets. But they must. And so martin our plucky but crazy swiss tour leader vaulted up the peak to explain that well, the girl down there, has bad knees now and asthma and god knows what, a bad leg, and she's not coming up with us and it was all because of Pacaya. So she feels she does not need to reach the top anymore but 3/4 of the way is fine. And the longer, less steep way down would be nice as well.

Then not to be done to soon... We went down to a batcave, literally all of them flitting about, and then yet another cave where massive tree roots trailed the ground and walls like piping. I forgot my camera in the hotel unfortunately so my glorious descriptions of the pocked and pointed floor, and the stalagited ceilings will just have to do. As we tramped through mud and I blinded everyone with my flash mercilessly in the dark. I was that girl.

And then the guide had us sit in the pitch dark at the back of the cave for a minute and I found the silence to be roaring in my ears and I didn't like it. By then my legs were muddy and the guide in broken english was saying something about families living down here or child sacrifices. I'm not quite sure but it seemed grim. And I thanked my helmet as I went clunk against an overhang and scrambled out on my hands.

Walking back was the most beautiful moment though, luminous clouds and stars peaking through as we walked the narrow path up and out, through the field, only to put on gas masks and see the glowing furnace below.

And then it was Pizza at the MonaLisa... What does it matter though, once you've eaten Mexican food, the various nuances of central american cuisine can really be done without. Can the same be said of volcanos?

December Celebrations in Nicaragua

2008-12-22T18:43:00.002-08:00

Schu asked for a post today, so she gets a post today! One I copied and pasted. : )

In Nicaragua the end of the year is tied to a lot of traditional celebrations, some of them celebrated all over the world and others related to the Nicaraguan culture and history.

The last month of the year is full of parties, happiness, family traditions, and religion. Massive processions take place all over the country. An inevitable and popular aspect is the gunpowder used in fireworks and firecrackers that loudly accompany the Nicaraguan celebrations.

Read more to learn about big traditional celebrations happening in Nicaragua during the last month of the year.

La Purísima

During colonial times, the Spanish brought their religious catholic fervor to Nicaragua, which was embraced in an incredible way by the natives (obviously after being imposed), with a mystical character and intense piety. This is how the popular religious Nicaraguan festivities were born, and in December ‘La Purísima’ is celebrated, one of the most widespread celebrations.

Imagine ‘La Purísima’ like this: a richly decorated altar is placed in a corner of a family house, with a statue of the Virgin Mary‘s image. In front of this altar, a lot of chairs are arranged, that will be occupied by family members, friends, and neighbors invited by the house owners to celebrate its ‘Purísima’. Once all the guests arrive, the celebration starts with prayers to the virgin, but these are alternated with traditional songs. All the assistants accompany with whistles, tambourines and other instruments. While this takes place inside the house, outside some family members fire rockets and the so called ‘caraga cerrada’, (firecrackers) that contribute a lot to the boisterous celebration. Meanwhile the singings and prayers take place, the host distributes to his/her guests fruits, traditional sweets, caramels, traditional drinks, sugar-cane and many other gifts.

‘La Purísima’ is a celebration to the ‘purest conception of Virgin Mary’, taking place on December 8th, according to the catholic calendar. ‘La Purísima’ is a tradition celebrated in all parts of Nicaragua by thousands of Nicaraguan families. These celebrations take place at the end of November and during almost all of December.

‘Purísimas’ are made for devotion or for gratitude to miracles that persons attribute to Virgin Mary. The families, or a couple of members of a family, realize a "novenario" of prayers to the virgin lasting nine days. Sometimes, the first eight days the prayers are private, but the ninth one is celebrated as described previously, but every family puts a little of their own style. It is interesting how each family inherits the image of the virgin from their ancestors; some of these images have been in the same family over a century.

Nowadays, the ‘Purísimas’ are also celebrated by big enterprises and institutions, and even by Nicaraguans living abroad or by Nicaraguan embassies.

La Gritería

Directly related to ‘La Purísima’, this other tradition, called ‘La Gritería, is more boisterous and more massive.

At 6PM every December 7th, a common yell is heard in different cathedrals and churches: Quién causa tanta alegría? (Who causes so much happiness?). This is how another ancient tradition starts along with the massive response ‘La Concepción de María’ (Mary’s Conception).

At that time, in cities and towns people start exploding fireworks and firecrackers. In the biggest cities, it gets so noisy that any uninformed tourist might think that a war has just started in Nicaragua. At midnight, firecrackers explode once again (the same happens at 6AM and 12PM, but on a smaller scale).

During ‘La Gritería’ Virgen Mary is also venerated. It is a celebration used by people to thank the virgin for miracles and it takes place before the official day. Faithful people decorate altars in their houses in a place were it can be seen from the street. In some neighborhoods you can find more than three altars in just one block.

Then, at 6PM sharp, thousands of Nicaraguans go to the streets to ‘shout’ to the virgin (the word gritería could be translated as ‘shouting’), which means visiting each altar and singing to the virgin Maria. This is basically how it is done: people hang around in groups, stop at an altar, intone traditional songs (the same as in ‘La Purísima’), house owners give fruits, candies, toys, instruments to make noise, natural drinks, and other type of gifts; finally, they move on to another altar. House owners who have placed altars wait until another group comes to sing. This is how ‘La Gritería’ is celebrated, lasting until the house owners have no more gifts to give away or until streets have no more singers.

Not only Catholics and religious people participate in this tradition. It is interesting to hear how people who do not know the songs’ lyrics make up the whole song or just sing the end of each phrase. This is a good opportunity for poor people to collect items, and it is interesting to see how people from different social classes participate in ‘La Gritería’

Christmas

Celebrating Christmas is a mixture of traditional Nicaraguan practices with other elements that have become Christmas icons all over the world.

Christmas has two main characters: one is Santa Clause or ‘Santa’ and the other is Baby Jesus. The climax of this celebration is midnight of December 24th.

From the last days of November you can see how Christmas symbols take over houses, firms, streets, and many other places. Many families put a well-known symbol in their living room: a pine tree (not a natural one due to the climate), decorated with light bulbs, colored spheres, bells and other types of decoration.

Another inevitable symbol is ‘El Nacimiento’ (‘Nativity sets’): small statuettes representing the moment of Jesus’ birth with Joseph, Virgin Mary, shepherds, and domestic animals. Nativity sets are placed in houses and churches, but also in the avenues and rotaries, or in receptions of commercial buildings. Some people leave the Nativity set without Baby Jesus’ image, which they place until the first hours of December 25th.

Christmas is a family celebration in which many Nicaraguan families gather to enjoy a special dinner. In some houses, children are sent to bed early because Santa’s myth is still maintained: this chubby, good old man bringing gifts to everyone. At midnight children are woken up so they can open up their gifts to see what Santa brought them.

In other families, children are told to write a letter to Baby Jesus, writing all gifts or special wishes that they want. These letters are used as a shopping guide for their parents. Gifts are also opened at midnight, during Jesus’ Birthday.

As a general tradition, at midnight, gunpowder explosions are heard everywhere from fireworks and firecrackers. The ‘Christmas Hug’ is also another general tradition. Family members, friends and neighbors hug each other as a sign of reconciliation.

During Christmas Eve appetizers are served, but the official dinner is not served until midnight. Before the dinner a toast is made.

Obviously, there will be small variations in every family within this same tradition. An interesting detail is the ‘Christmas Soup’ prepared mainly in the city of Bluefields: after the official mass in Vatican City, inhabitants of Bluefields invite everyone to enjoy their soups, celebrating Christmas in this way.

Religious Traditions

Many religious celebrations also take place during the last month of the year.

‘Lavada de la Plata’ (Cleaning the silverware): One of the most popular celebrations takes place in the town of ‘El Viejo’ in Chinandega. During this celebration, on December 6th, thousands of Nicaraguans and people from neighboring countries come to visit the basilica of ‘El Viejo’. After the mass at 9AM, the image of the Virgin, is taken down from its thrown in order to wash silver pieces (plates, cups, coins, etc) that form the Virgin’s treasure. These pieces have been given to the Virgin by many believers throughout centuries. This is done in Nicaragua since the first colonial years.

A group of ladies together with the priest washes the silverware, while attendants pray or just observe this ritual that represents the cleanliness of the spirit’s impurities.

Procession of the Virgin: Another more widespread tradition is the procession of the Virgin, realized by diverse churches in cities and towns of Nicaragua. In each of these churches the image of the Virgin is lowered solemnly, which is taken through neighborhoods in a multitudinous procession. This is done during nine days, generally ending on December 8, the day of the Virgin.

Las Posadas: In Masaya, Granada and other towns people celebrate the ‘Posadas’. From some churches, the priest and other believers accompany disguised children who represent Joseph, Mary and some shepherds. They go from door to door and sing popular folk songs asking for a place because ‘Mary is going to give birth’, and from inside the house the children are answered with popular folk songs denying them the entry, as it happened in Bethlehem according to the Bible. Finally, a door opens and Holly Family may enter. This occurs during nine days.

Shepherdesses: Another popular celebration in Masaya is the one called ‘Pastorcillas’ (Shepherdesses), taking place on December 20th. Here a couple of children dressed as Mary and Joseph walk in streets followed by small girls (between 5 and 10 years old) dressed up as Biblical shepherdesses.

Regional celebrations: In other parts of Nicaragua, the end of the year coincides with their regional celebrations called ‘Fiestas Patronales’. For example, in Catarina, Masaya, they celebrate Saint Sylvester parties. During this party, there is a procession behind the image of the Saint, who covers the whole village, accompanied by music and fireworks.

History

Traditional religious celebrations were brought to Nicaragua by Spanish colonizers. Then, they were adapted and modified in the so called ‘mestizaje’ (mixture of cultures). Here we present some background of these celebrations.

In the year 1562, a Spaniard who was traveling to Peru was forced to remain for certain period in the port of The Realejo, Nicaragua, because of a tropical thunderstorm. He moved to the nearest village of ‘El Viejo’ to wait for the storm to calm down. In addition to his baggage, he was carrying a beautiful image of Virgin Mary. He placed the image in the local basilica. The presence of the image was known rapidly in the region and many Indians and mestizos traveled from far away just to see, pray and venerate the image.

The virgin was very popular, so much, that when the owner decided that it was the moment to leave and to take his virgin, many people went to dismiss her with sadness to the port. A new thunderstorm provoked the nobleman to return to ‘El Viejo’. This was much celebrated by the settlers and the gentleman assumed that it was a divine will that the virgin should remain in ‘El Viejo’. The good man therefore decided to leave the image and to depart without it.

The celebration of ‘La Purísima’, according to ancient documents, was born in the city of León at the beginnings of the 18th century. Monks of the San Francisco convent were attracting children and believers with caramels and fruits to sing to the virgin. Too many people came to sing, and the monks suggested to the assistants to start celebrating the singings and prayers to the virgin inside people’s houses. The tradition spread to Granada and Masaya, and then to the rest of Nicaragua.

According to information of catholic organizations in Nicaragua, ‘La Gritería’ began in 1857 when Monsignor Giordano Carranza recommended believers to shout the phrase “the purest conception of Maria!” from house to house, throughout León:.The tradition spread and soon some composers created the canticles that are used nowadays.

LEON

2008-12-21T18:30:00.000-08:00

This weekend, SchuMustTravel finds herself in LEON (how does one *do* accents when blogging in America? there’s supposed to be one over the “O”), Nicaragua. From Wiki:

León is the second largest city in Nicaragua, after Managua. It was founded by the Spaniards as Santiago de los Caballeros de León and rivals Granada, Nicaragua [where Schu heads tomorrow], in the number of historic spanish colonial homes and churches…

León is located along the Río Chiquito (Chiquito River), some 50 miles northwest of Managua, and some 11 miles east of the Pacific Ocean coast. The drive from Managua takes less than 90 minutes. Although less populous than Managua, León has long been the intellectual center of the nation, with its university founded in 1813. León is also an important industrial, agricultural (sugar cane, cattle, peanut, plantane, sorghum) and commercial center for Nicaragua.

The first city named León in Nicaragua was established in 1524 by Francisco Hernández de Córdoba about 20 miles east of the present site. The city was abandoned in 1610, after an eruption of the Momotombo volcano, located only a couple miles away, which left extensive damage in the form of flooding from Lake Managua. The inhabitants decided to move to its current location next to the Indigenous town of Subtiava. The ruins of the abandoned city are known as "León Viejo" and were excavated in 1960. In the year 2000, León Viejo was declared an UNESCO World Heritage Site.

León has fine examples of Spanish Colonial architecture, including the grand Cathedral of the Assumption, built from 1706 to 1740, with two towers added in 1746 and 1779.

When Nicaragua withdrew from the United Provinces of Central America in 1839, León became the capital of the new nation of Nicaragua. For some years the capital shifted back and forth between León and Granada, Nicaragua, with Liberal regimes preferring León and Conservative ones Granada, until as a compromise Managua was agreed upon to be the permanent capital in 1858.

In 1950 the city of León had a population of 31,000 people. Nicaraguan President Anastasio Somoza García was shot and mortally wounded in the city on September 21, 1956.

The building of El museo de tradiciones y leyendas was once the infamous XXI jail before the 1979 revolution. There are also several political murals around the city.

Through Space

2008-12-21T14:21:00.003-08:00

The last night on the island I did not see as many stars as one would expect from an island. I did not know where they went. In the tiled long hall way with rotating fans i saw a crumpled leaf disguised as a butterfly. I finally prodded it up and it opened into this glorious purple thing with large circles for eyes. It calmly climbed on my hand and I thought it was nearly dead but stayed beautifully open and alert until I carried it outside and set it near the hummingbird nest. In afterthought I may have opened it to birds of prey and when later the group was playing a drinking game with cheap rum I saw it again land on a post and 5 clearish white blue geckos immediately sprang into view. And I thought certainly I´d opened it up to some harsher fate. I hope not.

One would think that also when your tour guide says 12 hours of travel. But after a short bus ride over the dead coral imbedded in sand and the cruise ship with tagged travelers, the flight with no a' c, to the 2nd flight with no a'c, to the 6 hour busride winding its way through hondurus- was easy in comparison to the worst day ever. So i just stared out of windows a lot and tried to hibernate. It´s exhausting to travel through a physical space. Flowing over a whole world of people and life. and then there´s all the waiting.

On coming to the border, the guy with the stamp had left somewhere and someone had gone to get him so we waited and waited... but were eventually released to a road with dirt and pavement patch combinations into a deserted Leon with trash everywhere around 12AM. But the christmas tree, though anachronistic to me shone prettily in the reception area. However, the charm of being in an old colonial house with thick authentic doors and gaping holes to the noise of the outside street lost its appeal almost immediately upon collapsing into bed, but I had to laugh as church bells peeled at 6am along with a car alarm.

And I thought, gone is the island, and here is the messy and all over the place Leon. It gives me perspective for the large latin base in LA. Certain staples of sprawl and weird neglect. They seem unwilling to go far from the main road. They are all out there along the highway, walking through the streets, selling their wares, as if to keep themselves neat and tidy in a small box may mean they would miss an opportunity of being, of seeing something... or that to be tucked into the jungle or synchrones with nature might mean they would slowly start to dissolve into the landscape. And it seems with all the volcanos and being on a mountainous sliver of land, how easily it could happen.

This morning I went on a city tour and their history though it may seem long is short. Indians. Conquistidors. Revolutionaries. The future...

The tour operator seemed to address himself almost soley to the older canadian in my tour group mariana, as it was just she and i, it made it obvious. We were both equally interested in Somosa, Cathedrals and the sugarcane candy. However, I was not pleased by the ¨death to imperial invaders¨... written outside the museum of revolution. And I didn´t need him to translate it for me.. because after the spanish, nicaraguans take up directly with America, but most honestly the guide admitted, they take up with themselves. But what can I do. We are all, all of us, very polite about things we believe so far both in the group and with all the guides. The conflicts usually lie within.

The others went off to sand board Cerro Negra. 45 min hike to the top and the quickest way down... but having already meditated on my limits, I declined. Though I burn with a small envy that i didn´t go, or even pay a few hundred bucks to deep sea explore in they caymen trench. And afterall I think someone should know something of the places your passing through- it´s not just an amusement park of activities. Because below the facade of the tourist is the deep waters of land and its people and its fate... And I want a good story. Something to reflect on besides the thrill and success of a physical act... But what about the city dump located on a beautiful bluff that shows you the view of all the volcanos you´re surrounded by, where Somosa had his fortress and turture chambers, or if the wealthy won´t return bcs Ortega is in power, or why Leon can´t get its tourism act together and why our guide is off to unite his country and show everyone why he loves it.

It is 90degrees or there about. And the sun is setting, which means I should go apply bug spray and await the dusty return of my mate julie. I need to get a good amount of time to tell you all about them... these people I¨m with. I have a nickname now with the aussie harriet. She calls me Cas-bar, and the Kaz for short. Mama Kaz for when she make sme feel old without knowing it. And I am already famous for my search of Canda Dry soda water, the one mojito I had and of course my smirking silent ways. Tomorrow its off to Granada ... with the peak of the summit reached, all we m ust do now is go down.

The Liberation Poetry of Ernesto Cardenal

2008-12-20T16:40:00.002-08:00

DAWN

Now the roosters are singing.
Natalia, your rooster's already sung, sister,
Justo, yours has already sung, brother.
Get up off your cots, your bed mats.
I seem to hear the congos awake on the ohter coast.
We can already blow on the kindling - throw out the pisspot.
Bring an oil lamp so we can see the faces.
A dog in a hut yelped
and a dog from another hut answered.
Juana, it's time to light the stove, sister.
The dark is even darker because day is coming.
Get up Chico, get up Pancho.
There's a horse to mount,
we have to paddle a canoe.
Our dreams had us separated, in folding
cots and bed mats (each of us dreaming our own dream)
but our awakening reunites us.
The night already draws away followed by its witches and ghouls.
We will see the water very blue; right now we don't see it. - And
this land with its fruit trees, which we also don't see.
Wake up Pancho Nicaragua, grab your machete
there's a lot of weeds to cut
grab your machete and your guitar.
There was a owl at midnight and a hoot owl at one.
The night left without moon or any morning star.
Tigers roared on this island and those on the coast called back.
Now the night bird's gone, the one that says: Sc-rewed, Sc-rewed.
Later the skylark will sing in the palm tree.
She'll sing: Compañero
Compañera.
Ahead of the light goes the shade flying like a vampire.
Wake up you, and you, and you.
(Now the roosters are singing.)
Good morning, God be with you!

translation by Mark Zimmerman
from Flights of Victory/Vuelos de Victoria

ROATAN

2008-12-19T19:40:00.000-08:00

Schu is currently on the island of Roatan. Some quick historical facts, provided by Roatan Gazette. And supposedly those ghosts, who have been assigned to watch gold, will tell you exactly where to find it if they’re bored of their post!

Roatan, the island located in the Caribbean Sea falls under the territory of Honduras. It is at a distance of fifty miles from the Honduran Island. It has a vibrant history that is woven with the legends of pirates, invaders, buried gold, Indians and a mixture of languages and races. Christopher Columbus had discovered Guiana, a neighboring island in the year 1502. The islands were already inhabited and the artifacts left in the caves by the inhabitants can be found today. Columbus was followed by Spanish explorers. They began mining gold in Honduras. The Spaniards enslaved the Indians and the Africans and they set up cattle ranches for providing food and living to the miners.

The English settlers also landed up on this island. William Claiborne was authorized to set up a colony on the Roatan Island in the year 1638. He was from Virginia.

A Dutchman raided the Spanish settlements in the year 1639. The French and the English also terrorized them. The English raiders came in 1642 and occupied Port Royal which was further off from the present day Port Royal. The Spanish however wanted to get hold of all the gold in Port Royal and led attacks against the pirates. The pirates were conquered and the Spaniards along with the Indians later moved on to Guatemala.

1742 saw the settling of the Englishmen in Roatan but Roatan was lost in March 1782 and finally the English had to leave the island in the year 1788. The Black Caribs who are a blend of the African Carib descent and the Arawak Indian descent came to live on this island.

Spanish is the national language in Roatan but English is also spoken on this island. The Roatan Island is a wonderful mixture of cultures, language and people. Tourism is the industry and the primary sports are scuba diving. The legend runs that ghosts or “duppees” inhabit the island.

Roatan has a rich history of the early days of the Indians, the pirates, the attacks to the modern day independence.

Island in the Sun

2008-12-19T15:42:00.003-08:00

The main street is sand and gravel. Potted after heavy rains like the surface of the moon. There is only the one road, but then we are on the local resort side of the island, not the poor side, not as my brit mates said, the loud american holiday all inclusive resort side- which has the only spectacular beach, and kids selling bootleg dvds, necklaces and bangles, fake sun glasses and a smile.

I saw an eagle sting ray last night from the deckboards of our restaurant (and little fish) gliding silently majestically by. Though i haven't snorkeled or kayaked or gone anywhere so reluctant am I to engage with the water, I do grimace at the fact I haven't yet seen a turtle. But tanning I can do. And dips into the pool. And staring into the horizon, watching for dolphins and the frequent fast moving clouds. And lounging over the rail as I'm watching for my fresh made breakfast.

Tomorrow we leave at 12pm and take a flight... in a tiny airplane to the capital of Hondurus.

Tonight we have dinner at 7.

Today I have done nothing but ponder the nature of my physical being. Constant, stable, plodding. Not given to moving fast through water or sprinting down mountains. Reconciling my nature with my desire to be something different. To not apologize for the way in which my body and mind moves through space. Feeling good. Eaten fantastic eggs and toast breakfasts with bacon, garlic shrimp... loads of club soda. Sauntering around in a gauzy skirt and flipflops, hair matted in curls down my back. Shuffling here and there, pausing to watch the birds manuever the volcanic rock, the hummingbird in the nest near the walkway, the tiny beetle i saved from the pool, as I blew it clear of the edge, every foot until I hoped it had learned its lesson.

Also thinking about all my past trips and what the point of them are... the intersection of memory and something significant- conflict, a feeling of bliss, the turn of a head, the shrug of a shoulder... looks, roadsigns, the memory of a pinecone in a brownneedled bed, the juice of a fresh warm plum, my foot upon a graveled path.

creatures of roatan

2008-12-18T11:26:00.003-08:00

hey schu, keep your eyes open for these beauties . . .

*pictures from http://www.roatanisland.net/dive_photo_gallery.htm

Worst Day Ever

2008-12-17T13:09:00.003-08:00

We opened the door to the balcony. The light of dawn hadn't yet filled the market square and the towering ChristmasTree glowed with the screeching dying lights of a birthdaycard that's battery was dying. I do not know why they think this passes for melody. Perhaps to torture the tourists or to give nightmares to the drunks in the bushes.

We shuffled over the cobblestone with the burden of our packs and got seats for the 6am departure down the windy? highland roads. I was already lifting my eyes to the heavens, taking ginger pills, and willing myself to lose consciousness. 3 hours down. With every person bustling on and off I willed myself to sleep. To lose focus on the dips and whips and bumps. And then it was over. We stop in a bus terminal with an odd assortment of people more awake and wideeyed than i. I sat eating sunflower seeds and drinking soda water. Contemplating actual breakfast besides a Clif Bar. But think, I'd better not. We stood in line for the bathroom, got our portion of toilet paper, then more sitting, and watching a cat nearby under a table. And a police officer who won't let us put our feet up on chairs... I turn enviously to the two guys eating chow mein. And the girl with the danish and the other 2 with marshmellows.

An hour and a half later our next bus ride mostly on flat lands through town and into the countryside was blissfully straight but trecherously noisy. As the motor drummed near my front seat and the driver honked at every passerby and passing truck and car. I portioned my sips of water. Finished, reluctantly the last of my dried apple slices, and had more sunflower seeds. And when I saw signs for Wendys... i thought yes, definitely I will go there. If we get there... if we ever get there. I reluctantly said no to leeche nuts in bags and curious pizza slices in plastic. And after 2 passing accidents, a dead dog in the road, I thought for sure I saw a dead cow far up on the left, black and white, just lying there. I leaned in closer to the mocking trash bags, and sighed relief, and turned again to contemplations of the consuming deceptive jungle with its beautiful palm trees and ferns grown up and along them.

By 3:30 we stumbled off the bus and into a quiet but fast and reckless taxi..taxi,taxi,taxi... which dumped us off at a dusty ferry terminal... where I bought more water. Ate a little bit of a Clif Bar and pondered the gentle meandering pace of an hour and a half ride. Was relaxed. Played a card game. Watched the man with the cigar, and wondered who frequented these islands and why did they confiscate mariana's beer.

But 20 minutes in as the ferry drummed along, was simultaneously hit with a 1-2 punch from left to right I began to regret that I didn't take more ginger pills or something stronger and the vibration and steady thwak thwak thwak was pulling me down into the depths of unconsciousness as I willed myself to stay awake and fixed on the horizon, as every close of eye rung a deathnell in my ears. My head dipped down once... again... the sun disappeared and the points became blurred and shades of grey...as the clouds gathered and hung glorious but ominously low. Until an hour in and i was breaking into a clammy, suspicious sweat on my brow, mumbling and angry at God for my delicate equilibrium, how my earth bound nature physically demanded I move slow and was not happy even at efficient speeds breaking over the water or down a mountain. And then I passed out again. And back up. I'm awake. I'm awake.

And asked my new danish friend Allneida for a bag. And up came thrice a clif bar and water, that had been sitting there nonoffensively for not very long. And maybe it was the ginger but the acidity in my stomach was very low, and I know the result could've been much worse. But as she handed me bag after bag, and a tissue... and the sweat dissipated and the tears of sickness crusted onto my salty skin we finally made it into port. I clutched the bag tightly and thought good god, get me the hell off this boat. Having not thrown up because of motion sickness since I was younger I thought, now surely, is this trip going to all at once make me regret climbing mountains, or even leaving the country, and bringing me every few days to the lowest points of low.

Around 630pm we boarded a shuttle to the hotel. And I clenched the handle bar and the window and thought what god forsaken place have I come. This island is death and bramble and pitch darkness as the car sped and curved up over and around, mocking me, and ensuring my complete and utter demise.

By 7 I was listing in the hotel lobbey. Staring at the cup of noodles I was going to try and eat along with some crackers... and nodding no, thumbs down, to all who asked if i was ok.

By 8 I was propped up in my room, feeling better enough to switch the channel from the weather channel to abc... to the small but significant consulation of pushing daisies and I was slowly with each step dipping into the noodles and crackers, and slidding further down on my bed, which my mate julie, gave me the double, bcs she was for 2 seconds feeling better than I was. . . and I turned off the fan as the motion made me more ill... inconceivable but true.

And by 9 I was fully reclined... and slipping blissfully to sleep... where possibly the nightmarish effects of malaria pills, drunken australians and my now very sick roommate kept intruding upon my peace, but so happy was I to be still it didn't seem to matter very much at all.

Copan

2008-12-16T15:16:00.008-08:00

Most of my tour seemed ambivilant about the humble ruins of Copan but I dug them. And I got points from the tourguide for having done my homework and seen Apocalypto. I think the central american people pretty much appreciate, well at least this industry, the visual impact of the film, and the reference it gives to what life might have been like, though he commented that the forest would not have been so dense, in the chase scenes, because of wide spread deforestation of the lands. But in explanation of the bloodletting, drug use which he frequently disparaged in reference to how they came up with the fanciful sculptures, cocoa beans, and slave trades he pointed to the film quite a bit, and used some amusing pop references so tha´t we´d remember... of course now i only know that the first king of copan´s name rhymes with Jacques Costeau... but then there were some cool king names like smoke-snake... and our tour guide was quite tall and not all like the tiny people we saw in antigua or in various parts down the countryside so far... so the mongolian-china gateway thing didn´t seem far off by looking at him. The history of this place is fascinating! But so far, and so under realized cinematically. It is quite a shame there aren´t more um, well, apocalyptos out there... for nothing else but to show this huge, industrious, over opulent and eventually ecologically devastating mass of people who were obsessed with the calendar, liked concrete as much as modern cities, invented the wheel and the numerical concept of zero-- fantastic.

Is Anyone Reading This Thing¿

2008-12-15T21:44:00.004-08:00

Cuz i know you care about every minutia of my travels. I barely survived the mercifully short bus ride of 7 plus hours, and didn´t eat lunch but a piece of bread and some almonds... which no amount of ginger pills and agua con gas could save me from nausea and the chokingfumes of guatemala city, the massive mountainscape, or the heavy breaking foot of the driver. UGH. But prior to that, I confess, I salsa´d. And now I know some basic steps. True story. And a little meranga too. Martin, my tour leader, showed up with beer in hand and said, come, come schu, come salsa! So I turned off the latest episode of Monk, with a last longing look at my bed, and went down. And I wasn´t too bad. Now that´s the truth. I can shake it. I´ll admit it. I´m shaking it right now to some latin rap in the internet cafe. And my dance instructer nodded his approval. muey beuno chica. shake it chicas. shake it!

And upon arrival in the charming town of Copan: you immediately find, restaurants, and the bank and you calculate how much limpuras is to the dollar (18.95=$1) and you consult with everyone what a tip would be and how much is $10 and what one should be paying for agua and if anyone is on a budget and where the nearest bar is and when does it close. And of course the internet cafe and man, why I haven´t I found a post office yet!

Convalesce

2008-12-14T14:10:00.007-08:00

I´ve spent the last couple days convalescing from my sojourn. Mainly because apparently exercise induced asthma can be nasty and last for days. LAME. Though I feel a bit of a ponce for saying, yah, asthma, thats what did me in. But it did. So suck it asthma. Hacking cough, malaise and all! LAME. So I go for walks, go lay down, watch HBO, wander, take some pictures. It´s not a bad existence. But you know i had to let go of my schedule which included: yoga, giant market shopping place, village tour (though i tried and tried on that front)...Also I´ve made contact with my tour people. No hot guys. Bummer. So You know I¨m not going to go to our free salsa lessons now. Forget it. And then there´s that- oh you´ve climbed mt. kiliminjaro? and cycle to work everyday? And then the I´m traveling for 6 months down through south america sort. There´s always someone there to trump you. I won´t ever win and my whole being feels anachranistic to everyone else I meet. But no matter. I kick ass anyway. (I´m full of self validations today).

In the meantime I´ve observed a quincinera, wedding preperations, a funeral, a couple processions, and loads of anticipating of the Christmas... Life is happening all around me and I don´t feel so much of a tourist bubble. Maybe my copious amounts in the internet cafe listening to soccer and n.american music. Tomorrow AM we leave for the COPAN RUINS... something like 11 hours? You know I´m totally psyched. Ok, I am about the ruins, but people the horror of that kind of day travel. Luckily I swiped a book and Harriet the Aussie already promised she´d lend me her ipod... game of cards anyone??

See you on the very long side of tomorrow (or the day after.) One can never be sure.
So`´long from ANTIGUA.

How to Make Your Own Central American Street Vendor Repellant

2008-12-13T17:12:00.004-08:00

Mix one part stank eye to two parts crazy grin over the open flame of your annoyance.

Stir vigorously.

Add dash of facial twitch.

Apply small smears of dirt all over person, liberally. (Volcanic dirt, while rich, is a dead giveaway for "tourist with cash." Dirt road dirt is, instead, recommended.)

Carry beating, er, walking stick.

When approached by relentless vendors, cackle loudly while swinging stick and exclaim:

¡Compraré solamente su alma! ¡Pagaré solamente en maíz!

(I will only buy your soul! I will only pay in corn!)

The Devils at my Back

2008-12-13T08:30:00.005-08:00

I thought, 2 hours, climb volcano, possibly difficult, a challenge certainly, but that I could take my time, like traversing a park. But oh not so. I thought as we took the near vertical first ascent, I am the weakest link, as the only older outofshape person elected a horse, and the rest of the crew outfitted in patagonia, and card carrying members of ¨adventure´ magazine... am I in real trouble here¿ Yes. 2 hours and 20 minutes straight up with a few dips and turns. A pack of devils. A man at one with the mountain. Dogs and the driver with the silver shot gun.

Possibly arrogance and a certain plucky ambivalence got me to the volcano, but it was my pride than Jesus and his angels that got me to the top. Fucking volcano!

The rest of the tour quickly took the lead and I kept waiting for the pack horses to pass me, but no they were waiting to pick me off. At first I thought this is insane, the masses of horses pushing up the path with me, then I got angry as they literally nipped at my heels and the pace was hard enough to drive my pulse into my ears. And each time I stopped the men on the horses said, ´´horse for you? It´s easy? No, time. Up in no time. Taxi. Taxi. Taxi.´´ But I shook my head and soldiered on. ¨Are you spanish¿´´ They asked. ´´taxi?´´ NO. I said. But as it became more difficult and the pace more furious, the group got to rest, just so I could catch up. And being in the front to set the pace became impossible no matter what the guide tried. Soon everyone knew my name, they became intermittently concerned, ´´Are you ok? Take deep breathes.´´ And my now BFF english friends Lee and Lucy kept an eye on me but mostly abandoned me to the pace. And the more the guide and the men on the horses saw me stop to catch my breath, and the more I refused, the men on the horses began to jeer at me and taunt me with every step firmly placed over root, between rock, up, up, up into the mountain we went. ´´Mi Amiga, horse for you. It´s easy.´´ They laughed. Jeered. Laughed again. And I looked back at one point and saw one of the mens faces lit up and scrunched in a sneer. And then I knew what they were.

And why I could not, no matter what, accept.

A woman named Kerry descended from her pace, and yelled at them, she doesn´t need your bloody horse! ´´You can do this,´´she said. I nodded, sucking in air through my nose and out through my mouth. The older woman on horseback began to talk to the men on horse back in broken spanish. ´´This is no good, not nice.´´ They said, ah meuy bien. Taxi. It´s good. It´s easy.

But Kerry continued to yell at them and I stayed the course until near the summit it was just me in the quiet, of the wind rushing down the mountain, and Kerry at my ear, you´re doing a good job. Just one foot in front of you. Don´t look too ahead. I nodded. I said, ´´I´m catching my breath.´´

And at the plateau before the push onward onto the volcanic slope. She said, you made it. You made it! Look. And she spun me around. And I saw God´s gloriousness as I stood level with another volcano and above the clouds, and the sun setting. And I thought, I could cry. I could hug Kerry. But it was when i turned to the left and saw my shadow, even with me on the slope that a few tears might have dropped. And the mist of the mountain went rushing down.

I came to the group and felt bad for being the weakest one there, or maybe the strongest for my persistence... and how much without struggle they could never know. And the guide in broken english said something about being positive. And I seemed to have earned his respect. I nodded and smiled.

I thought this is far enough, but we kept walking, one foot in front of another through now difficult volcanic ash and rubble. And the wind nearly pushing us down and off and the sweat bringing a chill on this otherworldly atmosphere. I stopped. I started. I kept on. I saw the lava streaming down the mountain. This is far enough I said. I stopped. I took pictures. But I kept on over the rocks, and kicking up dust around my firmly planted feet. And I saw the group in the distance and thought I did not need to go there, but I did. And kerry came rushing toward me and said, you made it! I´m so glad you came! Did I want a marshmallow. Come, come warm yourself by the fire. As the lava pushed and cooled and tumbled down.

The challenge back down was nothing. (And that was in the pitchdark with a minimaglite)

What do you mean climbing Volcanos makes you dirty!¿

2008-12-13T08:18:00.001-08:00

oh and the moon... that too.

Target on My Forehead¿

2008-12-12T10:32:00.005-08:00

I woke and did not shower. I did that last night, but anyway, it was not what you´d call hot anyway, so I don´t know how motivated I will be to actually bathe. I might. We´ll see. But I digress, yesterday I was completely ignored, and today I´ve been approached by scads of brightly colored women and children, ¨something for your mother, your friend... your enemy?¨ They say with smiles, knowing looks, and they pull from their slings loads of bangles. Promising real stone. I don´t know what compelled me but I bought what i´m sure is NOT tourquoise for an outrageous sum of $15. And after entering a shop where everything had tags and lulled me into a trance of no fuss, no bother, no hassling me, I was suckered again by a woman named Theresa who said her mother wove this and it took 3 wks... Well even if it did or not. And that she would charge me less but she must eat. Mmhmm. Whatever. I just don´t know what suddenly made me so approachable. i must put back on the armor of no nonsense and bother. None of this merchant interaction. I was not even nearly as tempted inTurkey and those people are hard'core. Enough is enough. I´ve already had to track down an ATM... and my own citibank does not take mastercard, which mine is... left me all sorts of confused, and left to track down a MC on the otherside of town, where I ate at Pollo Companero... chicken and fries can be got anywhere. Which was much less healthy than the steamed vege, grilled chicken i had for dinner... They lost power a couple times and no one seemed to mind... and now I am as Pen says, off to the volcano!

some Guatamalan reflections for the Traveler

2008-12-12T06:46:00.002-08:00

Poems
By Humberto Ak’abal

STONES
It is not that the stones are mute:
They are only keeping silent.

ADVICE
Speak with anyone
So that you will not be taken for a mute,
My grandfather said to me.

And be careful that they
Don’t turn you into someone else.

EFFORT
The effort to forget
Is also poetry.

NAVEL
The sun
Is the navel of the day.

The moon,
That of the night.

FIREFLIES
The fireflies are stars
That come down from the sky,
And the stars are fireflies
That could not descend.

They turn their torches off and on
So that they will last the night.

Originally written in Quiche Maya; translated to Spanish by the author and to English by Earl Shorris

PACAYA

2008-12-12T04:00:00.000-08:00

Today, Schu travels to a volcano. THIS volcano, to be exact:

Excerpts from Wikipedia:

“Pacaya is an active complex volcano in Guatemala, which first erupted approximately 23,000 years ago and has erupted at least 23 times since the Spanish conquest of Guatemala. After being dormant for a century, it erupted violently in 1965 and has been erupting continuously since then. Much of its activity is Strombolian, but occasional Plinian eruptions also occur, sometimes showering the nearby city of Antigua with ash…

It lies on the southern edge of a sizable caldera formed in the Pleistocene age which contains Lago de Amatitlán. The caldera has been the source of at least nine very large explosions over the last 300,000 years, erupting a total of about 70 km³ of magma…

About 1,100 years ago, the volcano's edifice collapsed, causing a huge landslide. Deposits from the landslide travelled about 25 km from the volcano down to the Pacific coastal plain. The landslide left a large crater, within which the current active cone has grown. The presence of a magma chamber at shallow depths beneath Pacaya means that distortion of the cone leading to instability and future landslides remains a hazard to the surrounding areas…

Following the end of the Guatemalan Civil War in 1996, endemic poverty and the large numbers of guns held by the general populace led to an upsurge in crime rates, and Pacaya was one of a number of popular tourist sites where armed robbery became a serious risk. Tour groups began visiting the volcano with armed guards, and incidents of robbery on the mountain have become very rare…

During 2006 a slight increase in Pacaya's volcanic activity allowed for the creation of several lava rivers that slowly flow down its slope. Word about this phenomenon spread, and local tourism increased significantly.”

Damn. I hope Schu remembered to hire an armed guard… Remember, Schu, if it erupts and there’s a rockfall, roll into a tight ball!

Off-Track

2008-12-11T21:19:00.000-08:00

Did I not love you enough¿ I asked my mp3 player. But it did not answer. For it had slipped away quietly sometime in the morning, and I had not seen it since. A thorough search of my pack yielded only a camera chord and a mocking empty space. Retracing all my steps would be futile and so gave it up reluctantly as an offering... to sit constantly in silence or be forced to engage people. Forlorn I went to bed early and disavowed yoga in the morning. I sat staring into the peach space above my bed for an hour.

Ironic since as I was walking home last night I ate at a place called ¨Fusion¨ ... which was completely empty, and it lead me down the spirally thoughts of life as a solo traveler. Exactly how comfortable am I with myself¿ At what point does the alone become lone. As it was I was already taking great risks with my life by, as I discovered 1/2 way thru a particularly tasty lemonade with sodawater, eating icecubes. I shook my head at my great recklessness. I finished the lemonade.

And I walked back to a coffeeshop that is apparently run by christians. Though the place was closed for a church service. They are my people, so there´s no shunning them, but I was suddenly conflicted over finding so many english speaking brethren all at once. I could in a moment, have all my questions answered and probably very easily have people to speak to for the next couple days or at least good breakfast lunch suggestions. And I could´ve stayed for some songs and coffee. But all I said was, I´m feeling restless. So I went back to as discovered, sans mp3 player, and wondered if I should´ve stayed.

The first Wander, by SCHU

2008-12-11T14:58:00.008-08:00

Woke up probably not as awake as I should´ve been as I was still rubbing sleep from my eyes as I turned the wrong way and ended up in a random corner of town. I sat consulting the small map and set my goals by a fountain... one of which was get money, and I hate doing anything of the kind, but after roaming around for an hour I made an attempt because I was getting hungry and what if I wanted to buy things... it couldn´t be about plastic all the time. And who knew where the atm´s were anyway not i... and the banks themselves seemed the only places with armed guards and impeccably clean glass windows.

While unable to actually look around as much as an absent minded professor, due to deftly navigating cobblestones and treacherous sidewalks with 2ft drops, I did manage to finally take some pictures and get to the central part of town. And of course myself among them, all the notfromhere types stick out, as I ran across a discreet subway and mcdonalds... I disavowed them and soldiered on, inhaling noxious car fumes and finding every few blocks ruins of what seemed like really brilliant cathedrals and then there´s the buses and the mix of everytype of person. Generally ignoring and sometimes briefly glancing in my direction. Why does the girl seem to be consulting that tiny black book all the time... and what is she looking for exactly. I am not quite sure, but I am proud that I have been surviving on cliff bars, found a lovely garden restaurant and had an omlette, purchased a bottle of water, a rosary and 5 postcards. You see it´s the little successes on your first day that are truly extraordinary... have not died of thirst, found internet cafe, did not get hit by errant car, may hopefully find the hotel again. Day by day I will count myself more and more victorious. One can only wonder what adventure awaits me for dinner.... (feel free to give me photo assignments and requests.)

1 QUETZEL

2008-12-10T21:37:00.001-08:00

I have a quetzel in my pocket and I don´t know how I got it. Maybe it was my grandmothers. But I don´t remember her going to guatemala. I think, this is the first thing. I am actually here. What have I done?

But there are all these signals telling me what for and why. Life would be more stressful if there weren´t signs. I followed signs out of the airport, to my driver, who was a small sea in a storm of signs and noise, and realized I´d forgotten one pretty vital thing- a language guide. I´ve been making due but still the complex guilt of not knowing enough is always with me... at least I can think of what my answers would be in french. But we made due. He has a large family, this is his work. Did I want to sit in front¿ Sure. Was it a fancy black private car¿ No. A huffing and puffing dolmush that clunked into gear through the mountain roads. Leaving GUA city though I saw no less than 12 shell gas stations, 4 burger kinds and a handful of mcdonalds. Citibank, toyota and 2 pollo camponeros. I said, to myself, i will not be disillusioned, even though this looks suspiciously like the backwaters of Los Angeles and the trees arch up into the night through the secret valleys, hinting at a difference, surely I am someplace else entirely.

Despite a late plane all went according to plan. And no actual thought was required until this morning... i need to find a bank, i need to find breakfast. It was dark, and a young guy came out and swept up my pack and just like that I was in a quiet, tiled courtyard with palms and fountain bathed in moonlight. He set my bag down in my box of a room and was gone. As if all the town was in bed and it was 2am. In truth only 11. A meager 2 hour time difference. And just like that i was left with myself. No alarm-clock radio-tv combinations, and a toilet I had to sit sideways on. The walls were stuccoed as if this had always been the outside of someplace and the large orange tiles seemed to echo the sentiment. A suspect tank of water sat in the courtyard and I took my first daring step because I was so thirsty, and surely this must be like bottled sparkletts, tastes like bottled sparkletts... ok, i guess i´ll go to bed? Have a handful of almonds and wondering what it would be like to be entirely by myself. So far it seemed safe.

Bye From the Plane

2008-12-10T11:16:00.001-08:00

AGGGGH! I’m going to miss you so much!!!

I am seriously tearing up a little right now.

Be safe, be well! And have so much fun!

xoxo,

pen

Adieu!

2008-12-10T10:59:00.001-08:00

And the pack only weighed in at 32 lbs.!

Schu's Travel Soundtrack -or- I Predict...

2008-12-09T15:18:00.004-08:00

I decided to use my psychic powers to create the perfect travel soundtrack for Schu, suitable for each part of her adventurous adventure. Here are my predictions:

Holiday, by JET (Shine On) - Carefree and "seat dancing" on the plane. It makes no difference what THEY SAY. Schu is on a freakin' HOLIDAY! Woot woot!

Run Through The Jungle, by Creedence Clearwater Revival (Chronicle, Vol. 1) - Upon arrival in Antigua, Schu will not be able to restrain herself or contain her joy and will immediately run through the jungle hugging rubber plants and natives on her way to her first volcano!

Soul Singing, by The Black Crowes (Lions Rock) - After calming down at last, a sustainable joy will settle in as Schu embarks on her day trips in Copán, her soul singing for the freedom she's found in the Mayan ruins and the green things growing all around her.

Something's Got A Hold On Me, by Etta James (The Best Of Etta James) - Love. She will fall in love with the waters of Roatan and all the treasures they hold. Standing with her hands on her hips, surveying the beauty before her, she will sigh and think "Oh, it must be love."

Motor Away, by Guided By Voices (Alien Lanes) - Motoring away to León and it's culture, wondering if the trip can get any better. Oh yes it can, Schu! Just you wait until Track 12!

Beautiful Day, by U2 (All That You Can't Leave Behind) - Schu will be overcome by all the history and culture to explore in Granada, feeling truly blessed.

Today, by 100 Portraits & Waterdeep (Enter The Worship Circle) - And just as all her senses are a-tingle with adventure, San Juan del Sur will give her spirit a much-needed chance to catch its breath, seaside. Today she will spend a moment entering into God's presence and being thankful.

Yellow, by Coldplay (Parachutes) - Ometepe, the nature lover's dream, and who is a bigger nature lover than Schu?! One time someone told me that the song "Yellow" reminded them of how much God loved them. Ometepe will remind Schu of the same. : )

Sons & Daughters, by The Decemberists (The Crane Wife) - Time for more toe-tapping travel tunes! Off to Monteverde, arriving in a whole other world. Alien or immigrant, Schu? Somehow "just visiting" won't feel quite right to you by now.

Land of My Sojourn, by Rich Mullins (A Liturgy, A Legacy, and A Ragamuffin Band) - La Fortuna and the road to the volcano! "And this road she is a woman, and she was made from the rib, cut from the sides of these mountains, oh these great sleeping Adams, who are lonely even here in paradise, who need somebody to kiss them, and I'll sing my song, in the land of my sojourn..." Sing Schu, and maybe even kiss some poor lonely mountains. : )

Fake Palindromes, by Andrew Bird (The Mysterious Production of Eggs) - Speaking of lonely, after experiencing such love and beauty, by this time, Schu's head will be spinning and her heart looking for a little romance in San José. But here? And where...?

Mr. Hurricane, by Beast (Mr. Hurricane - Single) - She'll wander the streets aimlessly, stumble into a discoteca, and there... Schu will encounter a dancing latin hurricane of a man who'll grab her by the hand and they'll disco the night away!

Dance Hall, by Modest Mouse (Good News For People Who Love Bad News) - The whole day at the Gold Museum, all Schu can think about is getting back to that dance hall! Will he be there? Will he dance with her? She must go get that fabulous red dress she saw in the shop window two blocks back... just in case. But alas, she does not make it back.

Glory Hallelujah, by Brian Wright and the Waco Tragedies -Alas again, rafting the Pacuare River keeps Schu away from Sr. Hurricane. The waters invigorate her and leave her with quite an appetite for a little, um, salsa. ; ) Muy caliente! But will she ever get back to the discoteca? Will she see him again?

Ooh La La, by Goldfrapp (Ooh La La - Single) - Schu and her friends go to market. She sighs. But then, ooh la la, what is that? Why, Sr. Hurricane is there! Purchasing the loveliest bouquet of flowers. Schu, throwing caution to the wind and embracing her spicy side, pushes through the crowd to the flower vendor. But a tourist bus pulls up between them and as she makes her way around it, he is gone.

Salute Your Solution, by The Raconteurs (Consolers of the Lonely) - Their last night in San Jose, Schu suggests they all go dancing. She puts on her red dress. They return to the discoteca. Schu scans the crowd for Sr. Hurricane, but she does not see him. How will they find each other in this crowd? A ha! The table! Schu jumps onto the table and begins to dance. From across the room, he sees her and runs to her, carrying the flowers from the day before. He knew she would come back for him!

Bittersweet Symphony, by The Verve (Urban Hymns) - The night wears on and Schu and Sr. Hurricane have one last dance. It is a bittersweet goodbye. She smiles as she walks away, knowing this will be her favorite dress for a long, long time.

Nothing But a Heartache, by Flirtations - With the flowers pressed in her travel journal and the dress vacuum sealed in her pack, Schu heads for the airport.

Train, by Matt the Electrician - The journey home is long but leaves plenty of time to reflect, write, and sigh pleasant sighs.

Good Good End, by Waterdeep (Heart Attack Time Machine) - Pulling into her familiar driveway, Schu is home at last. It was a long, long road, with a good, good end. "Hmmmm," Schu wonders, "Where does one find a discoteca in Los Angeles?"

: )

Happy travels Schu! Many adventures. You look amazing in red! ; )

Inoculated for Life, by Schu

2008-12-09T14:49:00.003-08:00

The very last thing on my list, besides my complete incompetence regarding my mp3 player is the shot in the arm i got down at the travel clinic. For HepA/B... I am now protected against them for life. Though it seems some small dent in beating death, but it makes me feel lofty. Like when I say I'm learning french. . . I'll feel more important when I say, oh yes, well, i had to get the yellow fever vaccine. I mean, of course! And now, after a fervent period of research and panic regarding everything that could befall me from taxi driving scams, to cholera, rabies, druglords, volcanos, and typhoid... whatever they all are, mean nothing in the face of the actual activity of leaving the country and ending up somewhere completely different.

And I've discovered the coming and going are really very important and a reminder that I'm loved, will be missed, and that my stories ... most of them, want to be heard... especially by puppets and souvenirs.

New Shoes

2008-12-08T15:50:00.001-08:00

Traveling shoes!

Why are you going THERE?! by Schu

2008-12-06T19:16:00.005-08:00

Druglords and sandinista rebels aside, it was 2006 and the wunderlust was strong upon me. I windowshopped the world map and explored all that Frommers and LonelyPlanet had to offer. And then one day I got an email from NatGeo about 25 best tours. And I gazed upon all the offerings of exotic locales and the hefty pricetag attached. Forlorn. There was one wee tour for a small sum to Nicaragua and it sounded just right, but alas I was beyond broke. And even now am not brave enough, or stalwart enough to trek by myself, just yet, as I work best with beginnings and ends, and dispensing with anxiety over lodging, though it may not always be this way. I think I could come close to going guideless one day. Perhaps next year...

But anyway, I got the brochure book, investigated the tour company, and decided that going to a place with islands and sandy beaches as my sole divergance might make me regret being single. And I obsessively began to chat about it, and friend Cath started sending me articles about all the fabulous things Nicaragua had to offer. It's the new costaRica you see. And then I hit the perfect blend of activity, relaxation, and culture... more investigating. And thought yes! I want THIS TOUR. Meanwhile as I was in exile in imagination land, penniless and investigating my own internal meandering down a dank tributary of the amazon, lost- And then the year ticked over and I got a new job, and I knew I just inched closer to my goal. But hesitated, waiting for the timing to strike hot. And then it slipped from my fingers, the job ended and I'd missed my window. Not wanting to miss it again, come hell or high water I waited 2.5 months into this new job to buy my ticket come what may. Fully knowing I could in a matter of months be jobless again.

So due to funds, it was the cheapest place to start, I'd been to Europe and places like Jordan/Egypt, Southeast Asia, and South America are next on my list... Either because I've never conceived of them before, the lure of thick massive roots entwined in ancient stone, or wanting to eat at the Pizza hut over looking the pyramids, was the next best thing to breathing.

I do know that I will never have the time or money, unless I set my mind to my task and proceed as planned, not with folly but a hearty sense of optimism and a little universal timing-

And now I've read about Central America, read a few books... and now wait with my toes tucked and my eyes wide to see what I find.

Day 5 Before, by Schu

2008-12-05T10:31:00.002-08:00

My imagination had taken me so far, that I could've, without leaving, already imagined myself there, and returning. So that all this mental preparation is startlingly converting to tangible reality- leaves me gasping for breath and wide-eyed, in a momentary flash of anxiety. Going places that I have only read about, remotely, and only recently that are real and will materialize before me in matter of days.

I think that's why traveling is so awesome. It lights a fire in the pathways of my brain and continues to burn for years and years. So that even now I think about my first trip out of the states to Belgium, and how I bore my friends incessantly with my trip to Turkey. They remain significant because the experiences are unique and not a matter of routine. That if I ever allowed myself time and inclination I could go back there and just revel in the weird fact that i was in some other time and place and people.

Not just I suppose to tick off the list of places gone and wonders of the world seen, because ultimately that only leads to disillusion. The mona lisa is small, carpet sellers are annoying, one tumble of bricks is ultimately like any other tumlbe of bricks lying in ruin... but I suppose it's the unexpected. How you relate a song, cloudy days, the particular taste of hollindaise, to wherever and who ever you were at the moment. And it's memory, but in a way for me more vivid than childhood- a choice to alter the fabric of your life in a way that you were unaware of when you were 5.

Costa Rica To Do List

2008-12-04T17:22:00.004-08:00

This week I must:

Finalize health preparations- shots, prescriptions, etc
(I was given a special pill to take 8 hours before I raft, to protect me from a bacteria in the water, Karen are you wise to this?)

Buy water shoes online

Make shuttle reservations

Peruse the Costa Rica Reader which is due back to the library soon

Everything else can wait until next week.

Pre-travel tidbits

2008-12-04T13:10:00.003-08:00

Today in the library I was helping a student research literature in El Salvador. Since I had all the reference sources out, I thought I would learn a little about Costa Rican Lit.

According to the Handbook of Latin American Literature, there are 5 identifiable stages in Costa Rican letters:

(1) the Colonial Period's denunciatory essay
(2) the development of the essay during the formative years of the Republic
(3) the narrative of manners (costumbrismo)
(4) the social denunciation of the Generation of 1940s
(5) the theatre and poetry of the current socioeconomic crisis

Not being much of an essay girl myself, I am going to try and find some costumbrismos, and I will enlighten all on Costa Rican manners.

CHECKLIST

2008-12-03T17:09:00.001-08:00

TO BUY
• Extra Memory cards

TO PACK
• Vaccination Cert
• Itinerary
• $300 LP+
• Money
• ID,STNT ID, AAA
• MP3 Player
• Journal
• CAMERA

DayPack
• Camera, Charger, Memory Cards
• Water

• Alarm Clock (1)
• Sunglasses
• Calculator
o Tweezers/Mirror
o ThickEucerin

• Knee braces’
• Ear plugs/hard
• Black travel Pillow

• Amphibian Walk/Water
• Flipflops

PACKED

Main Pack
• Pancho
• SwissArmyKnife
• Small Towel/Microfiber
• Jacket (fleece/wind)
----
• Sunflower Seeds
• Jerky
• Gum
• Cliff Bars
• Apple slices
----
• 7 Underwear
• 3 Undersocks
• 6 Socks
• Mysterious feminine products
-----
• 1 White Skirt
• Red/Red Skirt
• Swimsuit
• 4 Bras
• 5 Tops
(teal/blu/gren/blck/yllw)
• 1 LS-T Shirt O/N
-----
• Sleep Shorts
• Water Shorts
• 1 Stretch Pants
• 2 Cargo Pants
• 1 Stretch Capri
-----
• Travel Connect 4
• Cards
• Insect Repellent
• SPF 15 max

Emergency Kit
• Potable Aqua
• Emg Blanket
• Malariapills
• Leviquin 4 TD
• Ice pack
• Thermometers
• Dramamine
• Bandaids
• Anti-Inflammation patches
• Other…

Toilettries
• Detergent
• Tissues
• Deodorant
• Shaving Gel
• Face/Body Wipes
• 4 disposable razors
• Liquid Soap/scrub
• Floss
• Paste
• Toothbrush
• Shampoo/Conditioner
• Brush
• Sewing Kit
• Eucerin

PACKED DAY BAG
o Blister kit (check it)
o Advil
o Hand Sanitizer
o Sun hat
o Ginger pills
o Flashlight
o Zip-tie Locks
o 1 Underwear
o 1 pair socks
o 1 longsleeve top
o Gum
o Burts Bee’s
o Pens
o Mirror
o PlaneTix
o Passport
o Insurance proof
o Bandana
o Business cards
o Toilet Paper
o Compressed Water Spray
o 4 TourGuide Docs
o Gloss
o Soft EarPlugs
o Money Belt
o Binoculars + Guide
o 1 black tanktop/pnts

Itinerary of Schu's World

2008-12-02T14:44:00.003-08:00

Volcano Adventure - Antigua to San Jose
22 days Antigua, Guatemala to San José
Trip Code: CGAS

Brief Itinerary
DEC 10TH: Day A: DEPART 1120 AM BUR- 415PM DFW, 515 DFW- 830PM GUA
-PRIVATE TRANSFER TO ANTIGUA (1 HR)
DEC 11TH: Day B: Yoga? Shop?
DEC 12TH: Day C: Go to Pacaya Volcano.

DEC 13TH: Day 1 Antigua TOUR:
Free Day as other tour members join.

DEC 14TH: Day 2 Antigua
Once the most important city in all of Central America, enjoy the beautiful architecture of this UNESCO-designated, World Heritage Site. Take a mountain bike ride out into the countryside or explore the fascinating markets, shops and museums within the city.

DEC 15-16: Day 3-4 Copán
Walk through grassy plazas filled with intricately carved and decorated monuments, statues and staircases at the unique Mayan ruins of Copán.

DEC 17-19: Day 5-7 Roatan
A scuba diving haven, Roatan is famous for its marine treasures. Blue waters invite swimming, diving, snorkelling, or simply relaxing on the white sand beaches of the Bay Islands.

DEC 20-21: Day 8-9 León
Off to politically progressive León. This was the nation's capital from the colonial period until 1857. Many well preserved Spanish colonial buildings and churches line the streets, along with the largest cathedral in CenAm.

DEC 22-23: Day 10-11 Granada
Next, we travel to Granada - Nicaragua's oldest colonial city. Walk or bike the city’s historic avenues to visit the impressive cathedral, the colourful market or the Convento de San Francisco, a museum complex housing festival masks and a collection of 2,000-year old statues. From here, we have an included visit to the Masaya Volcano. Optional activities include a scenic boat trip or guided kayak excursion among the 365 little islands (isletas) of Lake Nicaragua.

DEC 24-25: Day 12-13 San Juan del Sur
Low-key relaxation by the sea. San Juan del Sur is set on a stunning horseshoe-shaped cove, where hiking, fishing, biking, surfing and sunset tours are just some of the possible...

DEC 26-27: Day 14-15 Ometepe
Travel to San Jorge on the shores of Lake Nicaragua where we board our ferry for Ometepe Island. This unspoiled island paradise formed out of the lava flowing in between two volcanoes, Madera (1394m) and Concepción (1610m), is a nature lover’s dream with abundant wildlife. Take a walk through its lush forest for a chance to see howler monkeys and green parrots. activities. You can also take a short boat ride to even more deserted beaches such as Playa Remanso or Playa Majagual.

DEC 28-29: Day 16-17 Monteverde
Travel into the cool cloudforest of Monteverde for a glimpse of the lush ecosystems of Costa Rica. Take time to bird watch, go horseback riding, mountain biking or breath in the fresh mountain air on a trek over the cloudforest canopy.

DEC 30-1: Day 18-20 La Fortuna
La Fortuna, at the foot of Arenal Volcano, is an excellent base for exploration. A night hike around the volcano is an unforgettable adventure. Try a full day of whitewater rafting, go horseback riding, tour the Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge, or relax and soak in hot springs.

JAN 2: Day 21 San José
Return to San José in the evening and enjoy one last night out on the town.

JAN 3: Day 22 San José
Rendezvous with Cathy and Isaac, Go to Gold Museum

JAN 4: Day 23 San José
Raft Pacuare River, Rios Tropicales 2233-6455

Stay with C/I
JAN 5: Day 24 San Jose
Go to Market

JAN 6-8: Day 25-27 Manuel Antonio
Beach? And on the last day return to near San Jose.

JAN 9: Day 28 (actually 31)
DEPART 10:05 AM. ARRIVE BUR 8:40PM